Has Tuscany been keeping a secret from us? One of Italy's most visited and beloved regions, Tuscany has been so generous in sharing their iconic red wines, like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, with the world. But have they been keeping the charming white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG for themselves?
image courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium
I'm happy to report that on my recent visit to San Gimignano that I met many producers who were eager to share their wines and implored me to spread the word. Located between Siena and Florence, San Gimignano is a stunning medieval era walled city that is renowned for its soaring towers that were built by powerful families to communicate their wealth and influence. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Gimignano's architecture and rich history make it a must-visit. And sipping the delightful local wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is an essential and enjoyable part of the experience.
mage courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium
What is Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG? According to the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Consortium, the wine's history can be traced back to the 13th century and was consumed by high society, including kings, popes, and wealthy merchants. The wine achieved DOCG status in 1993, the top level of quality in the Italian wine classification system.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is described by the Consortium as a "pale straw yellow coloured wine with golden highlights that become more evident with age. The perfume is fine and delicate, with fruity and floral scents when the wine is young. As it matures and ages, it develops the characteristic mineral scent of flint. It is a dry, harmonious and savoury flavoured wine. While pleasant when young, it often surprises with its capacity for ageing, developing sensorial notes in the nose and mouth that are complex and mineral." Production regulations require that Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG must contain at least 85% of the grape and up to 15% of other non-aromatic white grapes are allowed.
During my visit, I had the pleasure of sampling a large selection of Vernaccia di San Gimignano and was incredibly impressed by their quality and the diversity of styles. Crisp and fruity with great minerality and a tinge of salinity, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a really expressive and food-friendly wine with tremendous personality. But it also has the capacity to age beautifully and the older vintages displayed impressive texture and nuance. I was also impressed by the warm and generous personalities of the producers. Coincidentally, three of the most intriguing wines that I tasted were produced by wineries with women in leadership roles as winemakers and/or owners.
Elegant and energetic Barbara Bernardi, of Borgo Tollena Wine Resort in San Gimignano, was one of the most memorable people that I met during my visit. She and her charming husband Lorenzo are the proprietors of an exquisite farm and winery with luxurious accommodations for guests. They also own a shop in the center of town that sells wines and other local delicacies.
I fell in love with their Tollena "Signorina Vittoria" Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva 2015 ($28). Named after their daughter, Signorina Vittoria is a sophisticated expression of Vernaccia. 9 months on the lees imbues it with a touch of creaminess that melds beautifully with crisp citrus and slightly salty flavors. It is a rich but graceful vino that eloquently expresses the varietal's capacity for aging. Their wines have limited distribution in the USA but that will be changing soon!
While tasting wines in San Gimignano, there was a name that I kept hearing over and over: Elisabetta Fagiuoli. The owner of Montenidoli since 1965, Elisabetta is respected for her strength of character and excellent wines. I did not have a chance to meet Elisabetta while I was in Italy, so I was thrilled when the stars aligned for us to meet when she was in New York City. Charismatic and vivacious, Elisabetta is not a person you forget. And her wines make an equally lasting impression.
Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizionale 2017 ($21.99) is an excellent introduction to a classic style of Vernaccia. Lively and crisp with pure and vibrant fruit, this is no boring white wine.
Winemaker Sandra Mora of Poderi Arcangelo makes superb organic Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. I was so impressed by the precision and purity of her wine. Refreshing and balanced, it is available for around $15 a bottle.
Are you ready to give Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG a swirl? This Tuscan treasure really is the perfect wine for sunny spring and summer days.
