"Building texture is what elevates good wine to a great wine."
Jesse Katz, Founder & Winemaker, Aperture Cellars
A conversation with Jesse Katz could easily make you feel like an underachiever but he's so humble and charming that you feel inspired instead of diminished. Jesse has achieved major success very early in his career -- the first winemaker included on the Forbes "30 Under 30" list, recognized by Wine Enthusiast as a "40 Under 40 Tastemaker", and the recognition of his Aperture Cellars as a "Rising Star" by Wine Spectator are just a few of this 35 year-old's impressive accomplishments.
A native of Colorado, Jesse's career as a winemaker was set into motion at a young age when he traveled the world with his father, acclaimed photographer Andy Katz. Excellence is clearly in the Katz DNA because more than 6 million albums with cover photography by Andy Katz have been sold, including those by legendary rock groups like the Doobie Brothers. Wine is also a passion and frequent photographic subject of the elder Katz and Jesse spent his formative years accompanying him on journeys to some of the world's most famous wineries.
Jesse told me that he discovered his exceptionally good palate as a young man in Burgundy and by the age of 18 he knew that winemaking was his destiny. Honing his natural talent with hands-on experience by working the harvest at 15 wineries on multiple continents, Jesse also earned an enology degree from Fresno State University. After an accolade filled five-year tenure at Lancaster Estate, Jesse started Aperture Cellars in Sonoma. A collaboration with his father, Aperture is an artistic double-whammy: the labels feature Andy Katz's photography and the bottles contain Jesse's artful wines.
Aperture Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($40)
Inspired by Jesse's time in Bordeaux, this barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc balances lush creaminess with vibrant acidity. Rich and round but impressively fresh, crisp, and graceful with no overly zesty or harsh grassy flavors. (I tasted the 2017 vintage but 2018 is now available.)
Aperture Right Bank Red Blend 2016 ($55)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (11%), and Cabernet Franc (7%), this silky yet substantial red wine beautifully expresses Jesse's talent at crafting wines where texture is not an afterthought but an important factor in flavor perception. Bold and juicy with well-integrated tannins, there is an elegant interplay between freshness and complexity. Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered, and unfined, the smooth texture really allows the excellent quality of the grapes to shine through.
Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($70)
Silky and spicy, a kiss of Merlot (7%) rounds out this Cabernet. The flavors are deep yet very fresh. Impressive balance and depth.
Visit the Aperture Cellars website to learn more about these wines and others in the Aperture portfolio. And if you're looking for further proof that Jesse is the real deal, he is also the founder of Devil Proof Vineyards which produces highly acclaimed 100% Malbec. I don't know what's next for Jesse but his impressive track record bodes well for future endeavors and certainly has me intrigued!