I’ve never ever called a Pinot Grigio sexy until now! Peter Zemmer “Giatl” Pinot Grigio Riserva DOC 2016 ($38) will make you reconsider everything you think you know about Italy’s most famous white wine. Alto Adige, located in the northeast of Italy on the border of Austria and Switzerland, is truly one of Italy’s finest regions for Pinot Grigio; the Alpine climate and terroir produce superb grapes. But even in a land renowned for excellent white wines, Zemmer's Giatl ups the ante.
Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Riserva “Giatl” vineyard in Alto Adige. Giatl means “little property” or “little vineyard” in the local dialect.
Alto Adige’s first and only DOC Riserva Pinot Grigio, Giatl was fermented in French oak barriques and casks, aged in oak for a year, followed by six months in stainless steel on the lees, and six more months of bottle rest. This meticulous winemaking paid off. Rich and textured with tremendous minerality and a voluptuous yet graceful body; Giatl has crisp and rich fruit, a hint of cream, and a touch of warm spice. This is no easy breezy porch pounder. Giatl is a gastronomic wine that opens up beautifully in the glass. To truly enjoy its full range of flavors, don't serve it too cold. Exquisitely structured Giatl is a Pinot Grigio that can age for several years.
With so much bland and watered-down Pinot Grigio flooding the market, Giatl reminds us of Pinot Grigio’s capacity for complexity and elegance. I recently enjoyed a bottle of Giatl with friends and remembered that I met Peter Zemmer in 2017 when I was in Italy for the Alto Adige Wine Summit. As fate would have it, Peter is actually holding a bottle of his Giatl Pinot Grigio. Look at that smile; he has every reason to be proud of this exceptional wine!
