"Science and sensitivity, great wine is always a balance between the two. Technology is not against tradition." - Benoît Gouez, Cellar Master, Moët & Chandon
Someone recently asked me what I enjoy most about wine writing. Aside from the obvious delights of drinking wonderful wines and traveling to vineyards near and far, the greatest joy continues to be the people that wine brings into my life. Some of my richest new friendships have been formed over a shared passion for wine. Wine has a way of breaking down barriers and slowing down time that fosters a connection. Share a bottle of wine with someone and you tend to discover more similarities than differences and an appreciation for the beauty in our differences. For the past three years I've had the pleasure of tasting the new vintages of Moët & Chandon Champagne with their cellar master Benoît Gouez and it has become one of my most anticipated appointments each year.
The first year that we met, I confess to being a bit awe struck. Truthfully, I wondered if the invitation to meet with Benoît had been sent to me by mistake. Founded in 1743, Moët & Chandon is one of the most iconic champagne houses in the world. During my first meeting with Benoît, his down-to-earth demeanor and welcoming personality instantly put me at ease. Once that ice was broken, Benoît beautifully dispelled any notion that Moët & Chandon's size and status somehow rendered them not concerned with artistry, quality, tradition, and innovation. Benoît is passionate and precise about winemaking and committed to making sure that each bottle of bubbly lives up to Moët & Chandon's rigorous standards and rich legacy.
During our most recent meeting in New York City, Benoît generously shared his time and Moët & Chandon's 2012 Grand Vintage releases. Only released in exceptional vintages, the Grand Vintage wines showcase not only the unique qualities of that year but Benoit's interpretation of the vintage. "The wines made from black grapes, especially the fragile Meunier, were particularly good in 2012, which explains why they make up an important part of the assemblage. This Grand Vintage is a softly fresh and harmonious wine that reveals itself slowly but with supple assurance, like the gentle transition of spring into summer, and envelops the palate, blossoming into a crisp yet balanced bouquet."
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2012 Extra Brut Champagne ($75) is the House's 74th declared vintage. A blend of Chardonnay (41%), Pinot Noir (33%) and Meunier (26%), this majestic bubbly is rich and complex but also has a gentle coyness that is quite seductive. Supple with fine bubbles, crisp apple and pear flavors are lifted by hints of ginger and lychee, with a hint of butterscotch and citrus. The decadently long finish leaves a lasting impression on the palate. Exuberant and impeccable, this is a transcendent champagne.
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut 2012 ($85) is the House's 43rd rosé vintage and evokes the transition from spring to summer. A blend of Pinot Noir (42% of its assemblage of which 13% is red wine), Chardonnay (35%), and Meunier (23%); this is an exceptionally elegant and expressive rosé champagne. There's an unabashed fleshiness in this bubbly's red fruit flavors but hints of citrus and stone fruit add verve. Sexy and sophisticated!
The Moët & Chandon 2012 Grand Vintage champagnes are superb examples of Benoît's artistic nature. I recently shared both of these wines with my very picky friends and everyone was impressed by their beauty. Wow was uttered more than once. If you're looking for wines that will make even a casual meal with friends feel like a gala occasion, pop open a bottle of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne!
