Moscato d' Asti with a view of the Ceretto estate in Piedmont, Italy.
They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery but Italian producers of authentic Moscato d'Asti aren't so amused by bottles of fake wine from Russia that brazenly bear their name. Shameless counterfeiters may slap the name Moscato d'Asti on a bottle but the true essence of this Piedmontese wine is inimitable. Moscato d'Asti is more than just a delicious sweet & fizzy wine, it represents a rich tradition of winemaking and a cultural legacy.
"It is time to talk about Moscato d'Asti as a serious wine, not just a decent wine," said Luigi Coppo of Coppo Winery. Founded by his great-grandfather in 1892, Coppo has produced Moscato d'Asti since their founding. Coppo's historical underground wine cellars have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Why is it that we are often so dismissive of the sweet things in life as less interesting or less worthy of our appreciation? I must confess that prior to my recent visit, as a guest of the Asti DOCG Consortium to the province of Asti in the north of Italy in Piedmont, I knew relatively little about Moscato d'Asti, beyond its sweetness and worldwide popularity. I mistakenly considered it a wine that was made in Italy but not truly a part of the Italian lifestyle. Color me wrong. The winemakers, chefs, and everyday folks that I met in Asti made it clear to me that their love of Moscato d'Asti runs deep and the wine is an integral part of Piedmont's gastronomic and social traditions.
Naturally sweet and low in alcohol, Moscato d'Asti's prettiness makes it seem deceptively simple. However, precise winemaking is required to retain the essence of the Moscato Bianco grape -- the only grape that is authorized in the production of Moscato d'Asti. Moscato Bianco is an ancient Mediterranean grape that has grown in the region for hundreds of years and it was made into Italy's first official sparkling wine in 1865 by Carlo Gancia. The Asti Consortium was founded in 1932 and Moscato d'Asti was awarded DOCG status in 1993; the highest level of quality for Italian wines.
"I love making Moscato because it is difficult." Acclaimed winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, pictured with his father, legendary winemaker Michele Chiarlo.
Federico Ceretto represents the third generation of Ceretto Wines. Their Moscato d'Asti is produced at their Vignaioli of S. Stefano estate in Santo Stefano Belbo.
Visiting vineyards in Asti, I was amazed at how the naturally sweet and delicate flavors of the Moscato Bianco grapes that I tasted on the vines retained their personality in the wine. A well-made glass of Moscato d'Asti is a true thing of beauty. Seductively aromatic, Moscato d'Asti is sweet but nuanced with lively acidity and subtle fizz, it is a tapestry of flavors -- peach, honey, apricot, sage, wisteria, lemon, and more. Like all wine grapes, Moscato Bianco reflects the characteristics of terroir.
Moscato d'Asti pairs well with a wide variety of foods. Try it with fresh figs, cured meats, cheeses, and seafood.
Winemaking in the beautiful hillside vineyards of Asti is often a family affair. The Marenco family has been making wine at their stunning vineyards in Strevi since 1925 and their wines tell a story of love and commitment to their land.
image courtesy of Marenco
The Marenco sisters - Michela, Patrizia, and Doretta are carrying on the legacy started by their grandfather.
"Wines from our Scrapona vineyard vineyard always demonstrated a unique character," said Andrea Costa of Marenco Wines. His aunt Patrizia Marenco is the winemaker and Andrea joined the family business in 2014, where his background in engineering has proven perfect for bringing innovation to Marenco's wine cellars and vineyards.
Marenco's Scrapona vineyard is considered the best in Strevi’s prestigious Bagnario Valley. The name Scrapona derives from the dialect scrapare, meaning to climb and refers to the steepness of the hillside and how the best vineyards are often the most difficult to work. Marenco Scrapona Moscato d'Asti is an excellent example of the charms and finesse of a finely made Moscato d'Asti. Sweet but not cloying, it is crisp and nuanced with a great balance of fresh fruit flavors with subtle hints of sage. Still not convinced? Scrapona was served to President Barack Obama and former UN Secretary General Ban Ki- Moon in 2016 at an official event of the United Nations General Assembly.
It really shouldn't be surprising that Moscato d'Asti is made with such care and attention, after all Piedmont is one of Italy's most prestigious wine regions. World-renowned for Barolo, Barbera, and Barbaresco; many of the winemakers that I met in Asti also produce those top-tier red wines and don't view Moscato d'Asti as an inferior product, but as a unique and important part of their winemaking heritage. Moscato d'Asti producers like Michele Chiarlo produce some of the finest and most awarded red wines in the world and certainly their Nivole Moscato d'Asti meets exacting standards.Winemaker Matteo Soria focuses exclusively on the production of Moscato d'Asti. His family'y hilltop estate was founded by his great-grandfather.
It is an exciting time for winemaking in the Asti region, the new Asti Secco DOCG wines are a dry expression of the Moscato Bianco grape. And Asti Dolce DOCG wines are made in the spumante style -- a great option when you're craving a sweeter wine with more bubbles than Moscato d'Asti. If you're planning a trip to Piedmont, I highly recommend eating and drinking like the locals. A glass of Moscato d'Asti adds so much sweetness to life!
Recommended Wines
Michele Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti DOCG ($16.99)
Marenco "Scrapona" Moscato d'Asti DOCG ($20)
Coppo "Moncalvina" Moscato d'Asti DOCG Canelli ($15)
Ceretto "Vignaioli di Santo Stefano" Moscato d'Asti DOCG ($23.99)
Soria Moscato d'Asti ($14.99 )
To learn more about Moscato d'Asti, I also recommend visiting the Moscato d'Asti Stories website. Yes, yours truly is featured in some of the video segments.
