"Wine needs time and patience. That's not something in my DNA." - Paola Lanzavecchia
Patience may not come naturally for 4th generation winemaker Paola Lanzavecchia but she is certainly a woman of passion and persistence. The patience will come, as it must for all winemakers. Paola accepts that "the land gives the rhythm" and sets the pace for winemaking. The soaring hills of Serralunga d'Alba in Piemonte, in the north of Italy, provide the gentle yet busy rhythm to Paola's life at Villadoria winery.
Founded in 1959 by her grandfather Pietro, Villadoria is located in the heart of Barolo. The family's estate, Tenuta Cappalloto, is nestled in the western hills of Serralunga d'Alba. With a population of 500 people, Serralunga d'Alba isn't exactly a bustling metropolis but the name resonates powerfully with wine lovers: Barolo from this region is celebrated for its exceptional quality. Villadoria is known for the classic style of the wines they produce from the grapes grown on their 20 hectares of vineyards that are planted primarily with Nebbiolo, along with some Merlot and Muscat.
A graduate of the University of Turin with a degree in Agriculture (Winemaking & Oenology), Paola is very much in charge of day-to-day operations at Villadoria but her father is a valued partner and she affectionately refers to him as the "Lion King." From the vineyard to the cellar, Paola is personally involved in the winemaking process. She has successfully implemented forward-thinking sustainability practices. Recognizing that it isn't prudent to make drastic changes all at once, Paola balances her passion for innovation with respect for tradition so that the quality and style of Villadoria wines are never compromised.
Paola in the vineyard with her father Daniele and dog Camilla.
Down-to-earth, candid, and with an encyclopedic knowledge of Barolo; a conversation with Paola is a master class not just on winemaking but also on living a joyful live. Whether she's walking the vineyards with her dog Camilla, dancing, or wondering when she'll find time to learn how to sail, Paola approaches life with gusto. Barolo is indeed a serious wine, "the king of wines and the wine of kings", but my conversation and tasting with Paola was a beautiful reminder that fine wines are meant to enhance our lives, not intimidate us.
Villadoria Barolo Serralunga d'Alba 2014 DOCG ($35)
This is a lovely example of a traditional style Barolo. The wine was expertly crafted from 100% Nebbiolo grapes that were hand-harvested from select vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, including the acclaimed Lazzarito and Meriame cru. When I asked Paola what it means to make Barolo in a traditional fashion, she cited aging of the wine in big Slavonian oak barrels and a slow fermentation with a long period of contact with the grape skins to extract polyphenols and structure. This is a rich and vibrant wine that captivates the palate with a tapestry of flavors: cherry, roses, truffles, a tinge of tar & pepper, and tangible but well-integrated tannins. Still a baby by Barolo standards, it is showing beautifully now but has the structure and complexity needed to age at least 25 years. 2014 is the current vintage on the market.
Villadoria Serralunga d'Alba "Sori Paradiso" Barolo 2012 DOCG ($60)
Rising steeply from the Villadoria wine cellars, Paola describes their exceptional vineyard on Paradiso hill as a "big panettone!" Paradiso vineyard is part of the Sorì Cappallotto area of Serralunga d’Alba and belongs entirely to the Lanzavecchia family. Its special microclimate and soil composition produces a limited quantity of exceptional grapes. Aged in Slavonian oak barrels for a minimum of approximately 20 months, the wine is finished off in tanks for a total of 38 months. This traditional aging method tempers the tannins and enhances structure. Quite complex, this limited-production Barolo isn't ready to drink until 5 years after the harvest and can age at least 25 years. It is a bold and nuanced expression of Nebbiolo with a full body and harmonious flavors of cherry, violets, truffles, tar, a bit of balsamic and noticeable minerality.
Villadoria "Bricco Magno" Langhe Nebbiolo 2014 DOC ($16)
Nebbiolo is so closely associated with Barolo, we often forget that it can be used to craft affordable everyday drinking Piedmontese wines that are made outside of the strict requirements of the Barolo DOCG. Bricco Magno means "Great Hill" and the bottle label shows an original 1899 painting that was found in the farmhouse on the Cappalotto estate and shows the vineyard which rises in front of Villadoria cellars. I triple-checked the price of Bricco Magno because I found it hard to believe that it is only $16 - it tastes twice as expensive. Crafted from Nebbiolo grapes sourced from selected Langhe vineyards, Bricco Magno is full-bodied, velvety, and juicy with rich red fruit flavors and a hint of cocoa and spice.
I was not familiar with Villadoria until my meeting with Paola but I would feel more than comfortable serving these lovely wines to guests, gifting them to friends and colleagues, or just enjoying a glass while relaxing at home. I was not only impressed by the quality and character of the wines but also by Paola's enthusiastic and fearless spirit. Paola told me that she regrets that she never had the opportunity to work with her grandfather. I have no doubts that he would be beyond proud of how his granddaughter is taking Villadoria into the future while honoring the legacy he created. I can't wait to see what's next, Paola has a bright and long career ahead of her.