I had been warned that this would be no ordinary winemaker lunch but nothing could have prepared me for the force of nature that is Michel Chapoutier. Gregarious and unfiltered, this icon from the Rhône Valley shatters any image that you may have of a prim and reserved French winemaker. Michel lives life with gusto and if you choose not to go along for the ride, that's your loss!
"A winemaker has to be obsessed by food," said Michel as we tucked into a superb lunch at Troquet, a charming and cozy French restaurant in NYC's Soho neighborhood. To reinforce his point, Michel playfully grabbed a love handle and chuckled "imagine how much it cost me to do that!" and proclaimed it the expensive side-effect of using the influential French restaurant review directory, the Michelin Guide. Not just an enthusiastic gourmand, Michel is also a talented home chef and I've heard rave reviews from those fortunate enough to enjoy a meal prepared by Michel.
Food and wine together, as they were meant to be. Wine by M. Chapoutier, food by Troquet.
As a winemaker, Michel's passion for cuisine is rooted in his belief that a true winemaker "understands that food and wine have to be married. Too many winemakers are making wines that are powerful but don't pair well with food." For Michel, the relationship between wine and food should be one of equals, "it should not be a dominant/subordinate relationship."
Like Jagger or Springsteen for music lovers, the name Chapoutier is revered among wine aficionados. The Chapoutier family settled in the Rhône Valley in 1808 and their wines represent some of the most prestigious appellations in the world; including Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. Michel took over the family legacy in 1990, at the young age of 26. Since his tenure as leader, M. Chapoutier winery has earned more 90+ ratings in Wine Spectator than any other winemaker in the world.
image courtesy of M. Chapoutier
"Come to Tain l’Hermitage and you will see our connection to the vineyards: our winery and our homes are surrounded by the vineyards where we grow our grapes. When I walk outside my door, I find myself in the middle of our vines,” said Michel. Proud of tradition but not afraid to innovate, Chapoutier was one of the first winemakers and grape growers to convert a historic estate to biodynamic and chemical-free farming. And in an industry still dominated by men, more than half of the executives at his company are women. Even his daughter Mathilde has turned her attention to winemaking and makes a mighty fine rosé!
I've written about Chapoutier's wines many times over the years and their quality and vitality never cease to impress me. Filled with life and vigor, these wines are a true reflection of Michel's personality and his commitment to crafting wines that authentically express the essence of their terroir. Chapoutier has an extensive portfolio of wines at all price points but our lunch featured 4 very special bottles.
M. Chapoutier La Combe Pilate IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2016 ($38.99)
100% Viognier from a hillside vineyard near Michel's home, La Combe fully explores the winemaker's commitment to biodynamic winemaking and is part of his experimental range called The Alchemy Wines. The symbol on the bottle is the alchemic symbol for spirit and references Chapoutier's commitment to crafting wines that authentically showcase the spirit of the land. Fresh and savory with great minerality and texture, Michel recommends pairing La Combe with spicy food.
M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2016 ($110)
100% Marsanne and a fine example of Michel's belief that the best wines are made from one grape variety. This coveted appellation of Hermitage is named after the tiny chapel at its highest point that was once home to hermits. Marsanne is capable of making some of the world's top and most long-lived whites. This majestic wine is complex and full bodied with vibrant flavors of quince and honey with a tinge of almond and ginger. A great match with seafood or a rustic roast chicken.
M. Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2012 ($135)
Such a sensational Syrah! Unfiltered and unfined, Monier de la Sizeranne is a pristine and pure expression of terroir; rich and round with deep flavors of black fruits and a touch of licorice. Starting with Sizeranne in 1996, Chapoutier was the first winery to put Braille on a wine label. Now all Chapoutier wines have Braille labels. Sizeranne is a tribute to another icon of the Rhône, Maurice de la Sizeranne. Born in 1857, Maurice lost his sight when he was nine years old and later in life he perfected the system of abbreviated Braille widely used today in France. Chapoutier sources the grapes for Monier de la Sizeranne from land that was formerly owned by the Sizeranne family and later purchased by Chapoutier's great-grandfather. A perfect match with steak, roast, or lamb.
M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 2014 ($320)
Only 600 cases are produced each year of this seriously sexy and elegant Syrah. Supple and velvety with focused power, it is a compelling balance of strength and grace. Bold fruit flavors meld seamlessly with subtle hints of piquant licorice and earthy tobacco. A flawless match with roasted and juicy red meat paired with root vegetables and excellent company.
Michel Chapoutier's joie de vivre is contagious! Yes, he's a wine icon who approaches winemaking with absolute seriousness and authenticity, but Michel doesn't let his tremendous success and elite position hinder his capacity for unabashed laughter, even at himself. Great wine and delicious food, paired with a hearty dose of laughter, and fulfilling work fueled by passion; I plan to follow Michel's recipe for living life to the fullest!
