Speak with winemakers and you'll notice a common refrain is repeated around the globe -- great wine starts in the vineyards. Few would dispute that the tiny, yet majestic, hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany is home to some of the finest vineyards in the world. And from those prized vines, Sangiovese Grosso grapes provide the foundation for one of Italy's most acclaimed wines - Brunello di Montalcino. But no two vineyards in Montalcino are the same and in a land of phenomenal wines, Val di Suga has a unique advantage: they are the only producer to own vineyards on the three slopes best suited to producing top quality Brunello. image courtesy of Val di Suga
Like many important things in life, it is the minutiae of location that really matters when we talk about vineyards. Factors such as elevation, soil types, and proximity to water all impact the flavor profile and quality of the grapes. With vineyards on three different slopes, with three different soil types, and three different exposures; Val di Suga has the ability to produce three entirely unique styles of Brunello that authentically reflect their terroir and microclimates.
Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director for Bertani Domains says that Val di Suga's three single vineyards with three different terroirs enables them to "present Montalcino like no one else."
I recently had the opportunity to taste through Val di Suga's various expressions of Brunello di Montalcino with Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director of Bertani Domains (Val di Suga is part of their impressive portfolio.) If only my college geology class had included wine tasting, I would have been much more interested in soil types. And for anyone that thinks talk of terroir and minerality are nonsense, Val di Suga's wines are solid proof that wines can express a sense of place when their essence is respected in the winemaking process.
Val di Suga 'Vigna del Lago' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($98) is produced from Sangiovese grapes grown in clay soil near Val di Suga's lakeside vineyard, Vigna del Lago, which is 886 feet above sea level and on the northern slope of Montalcino. The fresh and lithe quality of Vigna del Lago hints at the influence of its proximity to water. Not overly extracted, it is soft with slightly chewy tannins and a touch of chalky minerality mid-palate.
The Sangiovese Grosso grapes for Val di Suga 'Vigna Spuntali' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($109) hail from the southwestern sea-facing slope -- the sunniest and driest of the three slopes. Historically, Vigna Spuntali has been known as the best area of the southwestern slope of Montalcino and the soils are a mix of sand and marine fossil debris. I found Vigna Spuntali a sexier and sultrier expression of Brunello with rich flavors of dark cherry, plums, dried figs, and blackberries.
Stefano aptly describes Val di Suga 'Poggio al Granchio' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($88) as a "macho and bigger Brunello with big shoulders." The area with the highest altitude vineyards on the Montalcino hill, Poggio al Granchio's rich galestro (marl) soils are particularly conducive to growing expressive Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Poggio al Granchio is an especially terroir-driven Brunello with evocative flavors of black cherry, clove, licorice, red currants, and a tangible earthiness.
Apart from the slope-specific Brunello wines, Val di Suga also produces wines that combine Sangiovese Grosso grapes from all three vineyards. Their Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($25) is an especially charming and lovely introduction to the Val di Suga style. Fresh and vivacious without sacrificing elegance and structure, this young red has soft cherry flavors with a tinge of white pepper bite.
Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($67) also blends grapes from all three vineyards and its nuanced red fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of tea leaves and mountain herbs.
image courtesy of Val di Suga
The expressive and authentic nature of Val di Suga should not have surprised me -- it is the trademark style of exceptionally talented winemaker Andrea Lonardi, technical director of Bertani Domains. Lonardi is endearingly obsessed with creating wines that are honest expressions of their origins. Whether you are a Brunello afficionado or just starting to explore these regal Tuscan wines, Val di Suga will captivate you. And if your travels take you to Montalcino, Val di Suga offers tours and tastings. I can't wait to visit one day.
