image courtesy of Bodegas Salentein
Don't let José "Pepe" Galante's quiet demeanor fool you - he's a genuine winemaking rock star. Widely celebrated as the father of modern winemaking in his native Argentina, Pepe has more than 40 vintages to his credit and shows no signs of slowing down. His illustrious career includes an impressive 30-year tenure as Catena Zapata's chief winemaker but since 2010 Pepe has worked in this capacity at Bodegas Salentein in the Uco Valley region of Mendoza.
Today, the Uco Valley is a widely respected wine appellation but that wasn't the case in the late 1990's when Dutch entrepreneur Mijndert Pon founded Bodegas Salentein. A true trailblazer, when Mr. Pon arrived in the Uco Valley in 1996 he didn't just want to build a winery; he wanted to transform a region. The tremendous success of Salentein turned Uco Valley into a global sensation and paved the way for many of the other respected wineries that have made Uco Valley their home.
In a world full of stunning wineries, Bodegas Salentein is certainly one of the most beautiful that I have visited. With the stunning Andes Mountains as its backdrop, Salentein is the largest estate in the Uco Valley with an expansive 5,000 acres -- about 2,000 of those acres are planted with grapevines. Their vineyards are planted at some of the highest elevations on the planet, soaring as high as 5,600 feet above sea level. Those variations in elevation and their unique micro-terroirs, have inspired Pepe to create a selection of single-vineyard wines that express the essence of Uco Valley in a distinctive fashion.
Salentein's single vineyard selections include Chardonnay and the grape that put Argentine wines on the map - the majestic Malbec. For this article, I will focus on Malbec because I feel that it falls into the category of "well-known but misunderstood" wines. One common misperception about Malbec is that the wines are all the same. So much inexpensive and simple Malbec has flooded the market that some wine drinkers think that all Malbec wines from Mendoza meet a very narrow criteria of "bueno, bonito y barato" (good, pretty, and cheap). In fact, the true beauty of Malbec is its capacity to eloquently express a sense of place and a talented winemaker like Pepe Galante knows how to craft Malbec wines that aren't overly manipulated but expertly coaxed to the best expression of their true nature.
Pepe vividly describes his approach to crafting their single vineyard wines: "Malbec and Chardonnay are unique varietals which take on the characteristics of the terroir they grow on. The Uco Valley, though small in size has a number of unique micro terroirs with diverse elevations; different soils, rock formations, mineral deposits, as well as irrigation from various brooks born from melt waters from the Andes. The winemaking process, from harvests to vinification and aging is exactly the same, leaving the terroir to define the fruit: thus creating a unique collection of diverse expressions of Malbec."
Grapes for Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec La Pampa 2015 ($58) are sourced from the La Pampa Estate which is located 4,265 feet above sea level within the GI (Geographical Indication) San Pablo. La Pampa's deep sandy loam soils have a high percentage of river stones, many covered with a layer of calcium carbonate. According to Salentein's studies of the soils, the calcium carbonate holds water underground and transmits important minerals to the roots of the vines. La Pampa Malbec has bold flavors of ripe dark fruits with a touch of black licorice, clove, and herbs that are elegantly balanced by lively acidity and freshness.
Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec El Tomillo 2015 ($58) is sourced from an estate within the GI Paraje Altamira with an elevation of 3,445 feet above sea level and the soils are alluvial and sandy textured. Salentein describes this Malbec as "a wine with intense and complex aromas of red fruits and a variety of spices; especially thyme - giving the estate its name." Savory and complex in the mouth, with silky tannins, a refreshing acidity, and a long and elegant finish, there was a softness and a touch of violet to El Tomillo that I found quite charming.
The Los Basaltos vineyard soars 4,692 feet above sea level within the GI Gualtallary. Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec Los Basaltos 2015 ($58) beautifully expresses the influence of the volcanic rock and basalt soils that inspired the estate's name. If you've ever licked a rock, Los Basaltos evokes that sensation of slate and minerals. Tight tannins, a kiss of spice, and a great balance between boldness and freshness make this a very compelling Malbec.
If you've been dubious of Malbec's ability to express itself as a place-specific and nuanced wine, Salentein's single vineyard wines will convince you. There's a reason why Pepe Galante is so revered in Argentina and beyond; he's dedicated his life to elevating the artistry and science of winemaking. Whenever I mention Pepe to his winemaking peers, they inevitably break into a smile and extol his talent, legacy, and kindness. I am happy to add my voice to the choir of Pepe fans; he's a tremendous winemaker and exceptional gentleman.
PS - If you're planning a trip to Mendoza, a visit to Bodegas Salentein is a must. In addition to the estate's breathtaking natural beauty, the winery is an architectural masterpiece. The estate also has an art gallery, restaurant, chapel, and accommodations.
