In the rarefied world of champagne, Régis Camus garners genuine admiration and awe. Honored an astounding 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge, Régis joined Piper-Heidsieck in 1994 and ascended to the prestigious position of cellar master in 2002. Many were stunned when Régis announced his retirement from Piper-Heidsieck in 2018 but don't count him out; he's embarked on an exciting new chapter as cellar master for the House's exclusive line of Rare Champagne. Produced only in the most exceptional vintages, only nine vintages of Rare have been created in the last four decades.
I recently had the pleasure of sipping Rare 2002 ($225) with Régis on his whirlwind visit to New York City. Although our conversation required the assistance of a lovely translator, the warmth of Régis's personality shines through in his easy laugh and twinkling eyes. Régis said that "each Rare vintage has its own personality" and that the latest 2002 release is "generous and rich but very refined and delicate." Rare is always a blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Noir (30%) but each vintage is a unique expression of that year. (Rare Rosé 2007 is the exception to this blending proportion. The first, and only Rare Rosé vintage thus far, it is a blend of 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir.)
Rare 2002 has beguiling flavors of Asian & tropical fruits, crisp minerality, and tinges of spice. A precise and vivacious wine, Régis says that "when you smell it, you can't imagine that this wine is 16 years old" because the aromas are so vibrant. Because of Rare 2002's exceptional structure, Régis believes that "it is a wine that can be saved for 10-15 years more."
Limited-Edition Rare Le Secret Goldsmith Edition Magnum ($1000). The bottle was decorated by Mellerio, the oldest jeweler in the world.
Régis has a philosophical attitude about his decision to move on from the larger-scale winemaking of Piper-Heidsieck to focus on Rare -- "the time had come to pass the torch to the next generation" in the same way that it had passed to him earlier in his career. Believing that "the most important thing is to stay young in your mind," even at this stage in his journey as a winemaker Régis has shown himself capable of innovation and surprise -- "In 1997, I decided to secretly blend a very limited quantity of Rare Champagne, which I preserved only in magnums.” That secret stash of about 1,000 magnums has recently been released as the aptly named Le Secret.
Unlike Rare Champagne, Le Secret has no dosage (sweetness added back into champagne after disgorgement). Delightfully dry but not austere, Le Secret is bold with exuberant flavors of lemon and citrus fruit, hints of fresh apricot, and verbena that are enhanced by minerality and exotic flavors. Le Secret has its own personality but clearly has Rare DNA and the Régis touch. How good is it? Five of us finished a magnum of Le Secret in record time over lunch! Clearly at $1000 a magnum, Le Secret is a splurge but sometimes it's interesting to know such beautiful things exist even if our budgets and sensibilities don't permit such extravagance.
If you really want to daydream or have $100,000 to spare, a few bottles of Le Secret have been adorned with fine jewels from Mellerio, the world's oldest jeweler. A shared link to Marie-Antoinette made this collaboration a natural fit: according to Piper-Heidsieck "in 1780, the Queen of France is said to have acquired a Mellerio bracelet formed of seven cameos and adorned with garnets. In a similar tale, a few years later, she was presented with what would later become Rare Champagne."
Even without being draped in jewels fit for a queen, a bottle of champagne crafted by Régis Camus is something to treasure. And I certainly value the time that I've spent sipping champagne with this charming and accomplished gentleman. From Piper-Heidsieck to Rare to Le Secret, Régis's impressive wine journey is defined by daring, artistry, excellence, and authenticity. Régis makes wines for people to enjoy, wines that tell a story, and wines that stand the test of time. That's truly priceless.
