"Our future is in our past. Our treasures are the things we have from the past."
Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE
Wines from Rioja are hotter than ever but don't dare call Spain's most famous wine region an overnight sensation. Way back in 1102 King Sancho of Navarra was so impressed by Rioja wines that he recognized them legally. The world has changed dramatically since the 12th century but tradition still matters in Rioja and respecting the legacy of the past is certainly at the heart of CVNE's winemaking philosophy. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España) and the 5th generation of his family to lead the winery since it was founded in 1879 in the town of Haro.
Dynamic and down-to-earth, Victor has proven himself preternaturally talented at moving his family's business towards the future without dismantling their solid foundation. A true citizen of the world, Victor speaks perfect English (with the most charming British accent) and worked in Brazil before taking over the reins at CVNE. Victor shared so many interesting stories while we tasted his family's wines that I've decided to present them in a list format -- Things Victor Told Me: Five Amazing Facts about CVNE Wines!
1. CVNE's Monopole is Spain's oldest white wine brand, it was first produced in 1915. Bone dry and incredibly crisp, Monopole Clásico 2014 ($27) blends Viura with a small bit of Manzanilla Sherry from the south of Spain! CVNE has special permission from the Rioja appellation to create this unique wine. Monopole Clásico has a charming hint of creaminess and salinity from the velo de flor - the thin biological veil of yeast that develops on the top layer of Manzanilla Sherry. "A great wine needs to be complex. A wine can't just be fruit. Monopole has a quirkiness to it," said Victor when discussing this very special wine.
2. CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva is the only wine from Spain ever to be honored as the #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator. This prestigious accolade was bestowed in 2013 on the 2004 vintage. One of Rioja's true classic wines, Imperial was first produced in the 1920's and the current release, Imperial Gran Reserva 2011($80), has also earned critical acclaim. A blend of mostly Tempranillo (85%) with Graciano (10%) and Mazuelo (5%), it is a very fine example of a traditional Rioja with a touch of modernity: intense yet graceful with vibrant red fruit flavors, soft tannins, and a tinge of spice. The name Imperial comes from a special bottling for the English market, Pinta Imperial (Imperial Pint).
3. CVNE introduced Viña Real in 1920. More modern in style but not generic, these wines clearly express Rioja Alavesa in their freshness and elegance. Viña Real Crianza 2015 ($17) has an approachable price but doesn't skimp on finesse and nuance. A blend of Tempranillo (90%) with Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano; this wine is juicy and fruit-forward with lively touches of licorice, spice, and vanilla. image courtesy of CVNE
4. CVNE's cellars were designed by Eiffel! Yes, the very same Alexandre Gustave Eiffel that designed the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris. Eiffel's construction begun at CVNE in 1890 and was completed in 1909. A melding of aesthetics and functionality, the roof is supported by metal trusses which crisscross the room at regular intervals and eliminate the need for columns. Visitors are welcome for tours and tastings at CVNE, Viña Real, and their Contino winery.
5. CVNE has a royal following: his majesty Juan Carlos I, King of Spain inaugurated the new Viña Real winery in 2004. Also, the 1994 Imperial Gran Reserva was served at the royal nuptials of King Felipe (he was the Crown Prince at the time of the wedding in 2004). The royal household staff selected the wine in a blind tasting of 200 Spanish wines. Victor said "a great wine can seduce you without being overpowering." Clearly, CVNE's powers of seduction work on even the most finicky palates.
Perhaps the most important take-away from my meeting with Victor is not something he said but something he showed: humility. As the CEO of one of Spain's most important and acclaimed wineries, Victor's accomplishments are impressive and he certainly has earned the right to be proud of himself and his family. Yet, Victor isn't boastful and is focused on the hard work required to sustain CVNE's tradition of excellence, while innovating in a thoughtful manner. CVNE's wines are absolutely wonderful but they taste even better when you're in good company like Victor's. Another example of wine's power to bring people together.
To learn more about CVNE, visit their website.
