Wine With Wanda

Rooted in Rioja: Family & Tradition Are the Foundation of CVNE Winery's Success

"Our future is in our past. Our treasures are the things we have from the past."
Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE

Wines from Rioja are hotter than ever but don't dare call Spain's most famous wine region an overnight sensation. Way back in 1102 King Sancho of Navarra was so impressed by Rioja wines that he recognized them legally. The world has changed dramatically since the 12th century but tradition still matters in Rioja and respecting the legacy of the past is certainly at the heart of CVNE's winemaking philosophy. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España) and the 5th generation of his family to lead the winery since it was founded in 1879 in the town of Haro. 

Dynamic and down-to-earth, Victor has proven himself preternaturally talented at moving his family's business towards the future without dismantling their solid foundation. A true citizen of the world, Victor speaks perfect English (with the most charming British accent) and worked in Brazil before taking over the reins at CVNE. Victor shared so many interesting stories while we tasted his family's wines that I've decided to present them in a list format -- Things Victor Told Me: Five Amazing Facts about CVNE Wines! 

 1. CVNE's Monopole is Spain's oldest white wine brand, it was first produced in 1915. Bone dry and incredibly crisp, Monopole Clásico 2014 ($27) blends Viura with a small bit of Manzanilla Sherry from the south of Spain! CVNE has special permission from the Rioja appellation to create this unique wine. Monopole Clásico has a charming hint of creaminess and salinity from the velo de flor - the thin biological veil of yeast that develops on the top layer of Manzanilla Sherry. "A great wine needs to be complex. A wine can't just be fruit. Monopole has a quirkiness to it," said Victor when discussing this very special wine. 


2. CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva is the only wine from Spain ever to be honored as the #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator. This prestigious accolade was bestowed in 2013 on the 2004 vintage. One of Rioja's true classic wines, Imperial was first produced in the 1920's and the current release, Imperial Gran Reserva 2011($80), has also earned critical acclaim. A blend of mostly Tempranillo (85%) with Graciano (10%) and Mazuelo (5%), it is a very fine example of a traditional Rioja with a touch of modernity: intense yet graceful with vibrant red fruit flavors, soft tannins, and a tinge of spice. The name Imperial comes from a special bottling for the English market, Pinta Imperial (Imperial Pint).


3. CVNE introduced Viña Real in 1920. More modern in style but not generic, these wines clearly express Rioja Alavesa in their freshness and elegance. Viña Real Crianza 2015 ($17) has an approachable price but doesn't skimp on finesse and nuance. A blend of Tempranillo (90%) with Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano; this wine is juicy and fruit-forward with lively touches of licorice, spice, and vanilla. 

image courtesy of CVNE

4. CVNE's cellars were designed by Eiffel! Yes, the very same Alexandre Gustave Eiffel that designed the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris. Eiffel's construction begun at CVNE in 1890 and was completed in 1909. A melding of aesthetics and functionality, the roof is supported by metal trusses which crisscross the room at regular intervals and eliminate the need for columns. Visitors are welcome for tours and tastings at CVNE, Viña Real, and their Contino winery.

5. CVNE has a royal following: his majesty Juan Carlos I, King of Spain inaugurated the new Viña Real winery in 2004. Also, the 1994 Imperial Gran Reserva was served at the royal nuptials of King Felipe (he was the Crown Prince at the time of the wedding in 2004). The royal household staff selected the wine in a blind tasting of 200 Spanish wines. Victor said "a great wine can seduce you without being overpowering." Clearly, CVNE's powers of seduction work on even the most finicky palates. 

Perhaps the most important take-away from my meeting with Victor is not something he said but something he showed: humility. As the CEO of one of Spain's most important and acclaimed wineries, Victor's accomplishments are impressive and he certainly has earned the right to be proud of himself and his family. Yet, Victor isn't boastful and is focused on the hard work required to sustain CVNE's tradition of excellence, while innovating in a thoughtful manner. CVNE's wines are absolutely wonderful but they taste even better when you're in good company like Victor's. Another example of wine's power to bring people together. 

To learn more about CVNE, visit their website. 

Malbec Maestro Pepe Galante Captures the Essence of Uco Valley

image courtesy of Bodegas Salentein

Don't let José "Pepe" Galante's quiet demeanor fool you - he's a genuine winemaking rock star. Widely celebrated as the father of modern winemaking in his native Argentina, Pepe has more than 40 vintages to his credit and shows no signs of slowing down. His illustrious career includes an impressive 30-year tenure as Catena Zapata's chief winemaker but since 2010 Pepe has worked in this capacity at Bodegas Salentein in the Uco Valley region of Mendoza. 


Today, the Uco Valley is a widely respected wine appellation but that wasn't the case in the late 1990's when Dutch entrepreneur Mijndert Pon founded Bodegas Salentein. A true trailblazer, when Mr. Pon arrived in the Uco Valley in 1996 he didn't just want to build a winery; he wanted to transform a region. The tremendous success of Salentein turned Uco Valley into a global sensation and paved the way for many of the other respected wineries that have made Uco Valley their home. 

In a world full of stunning wineries, Bodegas Salentein is certainly one of the most beautiful that I have visited. With the stunning Andes Mountains as its backdrop, Salentein is the largest estate in the Uco Valley with an expansive 5,000 acres -- about 2,000 of those acres are planted with grapevines. Their vineyards are planted at some of the highest elevations on the planet, soaring as high as 5,600 feet above sea level. Those variations in elevation and their unique micro-terroirs, have inspired Pepe to create a selection of single-vineyard wines that express the essence of Uco Valley in a distinctive fashion. 

Salentein's single vineyard selections include Chardonnay and the grape that put Argentine wines on the map - the majestic Malbec. For this article, I will focus on Malbec because I feel that it falls into the category of "well-known but misunderstood" wines. One common misperception about Malbec is that the wines are all the same. So much inexpensive and simple Malbec has flooded the market that some wine drinkers think that all Malbec wines from Mendoza meet a very narrow criteria of "bueno, bonito y barato" (good, pretty, and cheap). In fact, the true beauty of Malbec is its capacity to eloquently express a sense of place and a talented winemaker like Pepe Galante knows how to craft Malbec wines that aren't overly manipulated but expertly coaxed to the best expression of their true nature.

 Pepe vividly describes his approach to crafting their single vineyard wines: "Malbec and Chardonnay are unique varietals which take on the characteristics of the terroir they grow on. The Uco Valley, though small in size has a number of unique micro terroirs with diverse elevations; different soils, rock formations, mineral deposits, as well as irrigation from various brooks born from melt waters from the Andes. The winemaking process, from harvests to vinification and aging is exactly the same, leaving the terroir to define the fruit: thus creating a unique collection of diverse expressions of Malbec."



Grapes for Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec La Pampa 2015 ($58) are sourced from the La Pampa Estate which is located 4,265 feet above sea level within the GI (Geographical Indication) San Pablo. La Pampa's deep sandy loam soils have a high percentage of river stones, many covered with a layer of calcium carbonate. According to Salentein's studies of the soils, the calcium carbonate holds water underground and transmits important minerals to the roots of the vines. La Pampa Malbec has bold flavors of ripe dark fruits with a touch of black licorice, clove, and herbs that are elegantly balanced by lively acidity and freshness.

Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec El Tomillo 2015 ($58) is sourced from an estate within the GI Paraje Altamira with an elevation of 3,445 feet above sea level and the soils are alluvial and sandy textured. Salentein describes this Malbec as "a wine with intense and complex aromas of red fruits and a variety of spices; especially thyme - giving the estate its name." Savory and complex in the mouth, with silky tannins, a refreshing acidity, and a long and elegant finish, there was a softness and a touch of violet to El Tomillo that I found quite charming. 



The Los Basaltos vineyard soars 4,692 feet above sea level within the GI Gualtallary. Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec Los Basaltos 2015 ($58) beautifully expresses the influence of the volcanic rock and basalt soils that inspired the estate's name. If you've ever licked a rock, Los Basaltos evokes that sensation of slate and minerals. Tight tannins, a kiss of spice, and a great balance between boldness and freshness make this a very compelling Malbec.  



If you've been dubious of Malbec's ability to express itself as a place-specific and nuanced wine, Salentein's single vineyard wines will convince you. There's a reason why Pepe Galante is so revered in Argentina and beyond; he's dedicated his life to elevating the artistry and science of winemaking. Whenever I mention Pepe to his winemaking peers, they inevitably break into a smile and extol his talent, legacy, and kindness. I am happy to add my voice to the choir of Pepe fans; he's a tremendous winemaker and exceptional gentleman.  

PS -  If you're planning a trip to Mendoza, a visit to Bodegas Salentein is a must. In addition to the estate's breathtaking natural beauty, the winery is an architectural masterpiece. The estate also has an art gallery, restaurant, chapel, and accommodations. 

Legendary Champagne Maker Régis Camus Takes a Rare & Wonderful Detour

In the rarefied world of champagne, Régis Camus garners genuine admiration and awe. Honored an astounding 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge, Régis joined Piper-Heidsieck in 1994 and ascended to the prestigious position of cellar master in 2002. Many were stunned when Régis announced his retirement from Piper-Heidsieck in 2018 but don't count him out; he's embarked on an exciting new chapter as cellar master for the House's exclusive line of Rare Champagne. Produced only in the most exceptional vintages, only nine vintages of Rare have been created in the last four decades.  


I recently had the pleasure of sipping Rare 2002 ($225) with Régis on his whirlwind visit to New York City. Although our conversation required the assistance of a lovely translator, the warmth of Régis's personality shines through in his easy laugh and twinkling eyes. Régis said that "each Rare vintage has its own personality" and that the latest 2002 release is "generous and rich but very refined and delicate." Rare is always a blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Noir (30%) but each vintage is a unique expression of that year. (Rare Rosé 2007 is the exception to this blending proportion. The first, and only Rare Rosé vintage thus far, it is a blend of 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir.) 

Rare 2002 has beguiling flavors of Asian & tropical fruits, crisp minerality, and tinges of spice. A precise and vivacious wine, Régis says that "when you smell it, you can't imagine that this wine is 16 years old" because the aromas are so vibrant. Because of Rare 2002's exceptional structure, Régis believes that "it is a wine that can be saved for 10-15 years more."

Limited-Edition Rare Le Secret Goldsmith Edition Magnum ($1000). The bottle was decorated by Mellerio, the oldest jeweler in the world.

Régis has a philosophical attitude about his decision to move on from the larger-scale winemaking of Piper-Heidsieck to focus on Rare -- "the time had come to pass the torch to the next generation" in the same way that it had passed to him earlier in his career. Believing that "the most important thing is to stay young in your mind," even at this stage in his journey as a winemaker Régis has shown himself capable of innovation and surprise -- "In 1997, I decided to secretly blend a very limited quantity of Rare Champagne, which I preserved only in magnums.” That secret stash of about 1,000 magnums has recently been released as the aptly named Le Secret.  

Unlike Rare Champagne, Le Secret has no dosage (sweetness added back into champagne after disgorgement). Delightfully dry but not austere, Le Secret is bold with exuberant flavors of lemon and citrus fruit, hints of fresh apricot, and verbena that are enhanced by minerality and exotic flavors. Le Secret has its own personality but clearly has Rare DNA and the Régis touch. How good is it? Five of us finished a magnum of Le Secret in record time over lunch! Clearly at $1000 a magnum, Le Secret is a splurge but sometimes it's interesting to know such beautiful things exist even if our budgets and sensibilities don't permit such extravagance. 

If you really want to daydream or have $100,000 to spare, a few bottles of Le Secret have been adorned with fine jewels from Mellerio, the world's oldest jeweler. A shared link to Marie-Antoinette made this collaboration a natural fit: according to Piper-Heidsieck "in 1780, the Queen of France is said to have acquired a Mellerio bracelet formed of seven cameos and adorned with garnets. In a similar tale, a few years later, she was presented with what would later become Rare Champagne."



Even without being draped in jewels fit for a queen, a bottle of champagne crafted by Régis Camus is something to treasure. And I certainly value the time that I've spent sipping champagne with this charming and accomplished gentleman. From Piper-Heidsieck to Rare to Le Secret, Régis's impressive wine journey is defined by daring, artistry, excellence, and authenticity. Régis makes wines for people to enjoy, wines that tell a story, and wines that stand the test of time. That's truly priceless.  

Wine With a Mission: emBRAZEN Celebrates Bold Women, Past & Present

 

“It’s exciting to share these women’s compelling stories through emBRAZEN wines. I hope these wines spark conversation among friends, family, co-workers or even in the wine aisle. I’m proud to have crafted these wines, providing a bold and delicious canvas for their voices to be heard.” - Olivia Teutschel, emBRAZEN winemaker

I'll admit to being a bit skeptical when I first heard about emBRAZEN Wines. I actively avoid any wines that seem gimmicky or blatant in their pandering to women. But something about emBRAZEN caught my eye: the beautiful visage of one of my all-time favorite women in history adorns one of the bottles, the inimitable Josephine Baker. Wanting to make sure that the wine within the bottle was worthy of such an iconic figure, I decided to give emBRAZEN a chance. I'm so glad I did. 

emBRAZEN Red Blend honors Josephine Baker - entertainer, Civil Rights activist, and spy for the French Resistance. The bottle bears Ms. Baker's image and her quote, "To realize our dreams, we must decide to wake up."

Crafted by winemaker Olivia Teutschel, emBRAZEN defines itself as "more than just a wine brand. It’s a call to arms, encouraging women to reclaim their narratives and rewrite history." In addition to the Red Blend that pays tribute to Josephine Baker, the emBRAZEN trio of California wines includes a Cabernet Sauvignon in honor of journalist & explorer Nellie Bly and a Chardonnay inspired by the Queen of Salsa, singer Celiz Cruz.

"Energy rightly applied and directed will accomplish anything." - Nellie Bly

Fruit-forward and vibrant, emBrazen wines are delicious and enlightening. The back label of each bottle has a short bio of its muse and if you download their Living Wine Labels app, the labels come to life and tell their story. The wines are attractively priced at $15 each. 


"When opportunity presents itself, grab it. Hold on tight and don’t let go.” - Celia Cruz

 Committed to inspiring modern women to share their stories, emBRAZEN will award $25,000 to a woman who is shattering expectations and driving change in her community. “Women are paving their own paths and taking control of their futures by speaking boldly to ignite progress and change the world. Through our Take Up The Torch program, emBRAZEN recognizes local unsung heroes who deserve support to achieve their community enhancing goals," says Patricia Montagno, Vice President of Marketing for Treasury Wine Estates, the parent company of emBRAZEN. Nominations will be accepted until December 2, 2018 and the winner will be announced on International Women's Day (March 8, 2019). Click here to nominate women who Take Up The Torch! 

 I'm truly impressed by emBRAZEN's mission to honor trailblazing women of the past and to support women defying convention today. Yes, wine is about pleasure but emBRAZEN is a beautiful and innovative example of how wine can also be a conduit to knowledge and empowerment. The accessible price of emBRAZEN wines will allow the powerful stories of Josephine Baker, Nellie Bly, and Celia Cruz to reach a large audience of wine lovers who can find inspiration in the fearlessness of these incredible women. Their stories should never be forgotten. I'll drink to that! 

Seven Sensational Wines for Holiday Sipping

Whether you're entertaining at home or looking for the perfect bottle to give your host, these seven wines perfectly match the flavors and mood of the holiday season. Cheers! 

 Champagne Jacquart Brut Mosaïque ($45)
France
Greet your guests in style with this sophisticated bubbly. A classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier; it is fresh, crisp, and vibrant. Popping the cork on a beautiful bottle of champagne never goes out of fashion and is the perfect way to toast the joyous mood of the season. 

Valdo Cuvée 1926 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG ($19.99)
Italy
Who says Prosecco can't be elegant and nuanced? Named in honor of the year Valdo was founded, Cuvée 1926 is a terroir-driven wine that beautifully expresses the hilly terroir of Valdobbiadene, about 50 kilometers from Venice. Mostly Glera (90%) with a kiss of Chardonnay (10%), this Prosecco actually spends several months on the lees which enhances its fresh and flowery flavors with a hint of toasty complexity. 

Château Les Charmes-Godard 2015, Francs - Côtes de Bordeaux ($20)
France
I’ve had this charming white Bordeaux several times and it always makes me go ooh la la ! A blend of Sèmillon, Sauvignon Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc, it is vibrant and fresh with gorgeous flavors of lemon curd, grapefruit, green apple, verbena, and white peach with zippy acidity and lip smacking chalky minerality.

Banfi Centine Rosé Toscana 2017 ($14)
Italy 
Yes, you can drink pink all year long! This charming rosé from Tuscany is a juicy and medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Brimming with vibrant red berry flavors and a flirty long finish. Fresh and food-friendly! 

E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2015 ($25)
France
A dangerously delicious wine -- I came too close to finishing this superb bottle of Syrah all by myself! Rich, juicy, earthy, and fresh with a hint of spice; it is an elegant expression of its terroir in France's iconic northern Rhône Valley. Guigal does it again! 

Knudsen Vineyards Pinot Noir 2016 ($55)
USA (Oregon)
I’m always excited to see Willamette Valley on a bottle of Pinot Noir - this Oregon region has become one of my favorites for wines made from the heartbreak grape. Knudsen Vineyards Pinot Noir 2016 from the Dundee Hills AVA is a charming sip. Medium-bodied with vibrant crushed cherry flavors with a touch of strawberry, pomegranate, and a touch of black tea leaves. Very supple and fresh.


Santi "Ventale" Valpolicella Superiore 2016 ($14.99)
Italy
A lively blend of Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella sourced primarily from vineyards in the breezy Illasi Valley, the name Ventale is inspired by the Italian word for wind. A fresh and medium bodied red with some zing and a touch of cranberry tartness and red cherry. Ventale is silky, juicy, and quite refreshing.  

He Is Pere Ventura and His Wines Are Fantastic: Chic Cava from Catalunya

 

Marta Sanvicente (chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava) and Pere Ventura (president and owner of Pere Ventura Family Wine Estates)

Wine is very humbling -- there's always something new to learn. On a brisk fall night in downtown Manhattan, I learned that Pere Ventura is not just the brand name on a wonderful bottle of sparkling wine but also the name of a charming & creative Catalan gentleman. Mr. Ventura's business card boldly states "Yo Soy Pere Ventura" (I am Pere Ventura) to make it crystal clear that Pere Ventura the wine would not exist without Pere Ventura the man. His hand print on each bottle is a bold statement of Mr. Ventura's personal dedication to quality.

Pere Ventura Cava is located in northeast Spain, near Barcelona, in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, in the Penèdes region - the heart of Catalunya's Cava production zone. 

As a young man, Pere Ventura dreamed of dedicating his life to the priesthood but wine has provided him with a different type of ministry. Traveling the world to share his acclaimed sparkling wines, Pere Ventura spreads the gospel of a life enhanced by wine. When he founded his namesake winery in 1992, Mr. Ventura wasn't just determined to make Cava of exceptional quality, he was honoring his family's winemaking legacy that can be traced back to the 19th century. Cava is in Mr. Ventura's DNA -- his great grandfather, Manuel Montserrat Font, helped produced the first bottles of Cava at Codorniu. 


Cava has grown in popularity but the wines of Pere Ventura prove that it is more than Spain's fun and inexpensive sparkling wine. In the right hands, Cava can achieve impressive elegance and depth. With Marta Sanvicente at the helm as chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava continues to reach new heights. There are no short-cuts when it comes to making Cava at this level and Pere Ventura produces all of their Cava in the traditional method of sparkling wine production, the same labor-intensive method used for Champagne. Sustainability is also a priority at Pere Ventura and the grapes are farmed organically.

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Reserva ($16.99) is a great introduction to the Pere Ventura style. A classic blend of Xarel-lo (40%), Macabeo (40%), and Parellada (20%), it is crisp and clean with lively flavors of ripe apples, grapefruit, lemon, and brioche. Aged 24-30 months on those lovely yeasty lees, this wine truly over-delivers at such an affordable price. 

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Rosé ($16.99) is made from 100% Trepat and has been aged about 15 months on the lees. Fine bubbles dance across the palate with fresh flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. 



Pere Ventura Vintage Brut Gran Reserva 2012 ($44.99) is a next-level Cava that beautifully convey's the wine's capacity for complexity and sophistication. A blend of Xarel-lo (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) grapes sourced from old vines with an average age of 25 years, this stunner spends a minimum of 45 months luxuriating on the lees. Creamy and velvety with hints of butterscotch and a tinge of bitter almond at the finish, this vintage Cava balances intensity with lively acidity and fine bubbles. 

Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 ($86.99) is an exclusive and limited production Cava made only in exceptional vintages. The price may initially strike you as lofty for a Cava but it represents a superior level of winemaking. The Macabeo (50%) and Xarel-lo (50%) grapes are sourced specifically from the estate's old vine plots La Anciana and La Secreta. These elder vines yield small quantities of exceptional grapes. Aged for 5 years on the lees in deep underground cellars, Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 is a vivid expression of terroir and meticulous winemaking. Vivacious but delicate bubbles smoothly transport elegant flavors, textures, and a sense of place. 


Are you ready to take your palate on a Cava adventure? If your travels take you to Spain's Catalunya region, Pere Ventura offers tours and guided tastings. But no passport is needed to enjoy these wines, Pere Ventura Cava is widely available. And when you pop open a bottle of Pere Ventura be sure to raise a glass in honor of Mr. Pere Ventura! 

Holiday Ooh La La: Six Sensational Wines from Roussillon That You Can Order Online from Snooth!

A view from Domaine La Tour Vieille in Collioure - one of the wineries featured in Snooth's Roussillon Holiday Array 6-Pack. Collioure is a picturesque town in French Catalonia on the Mediterranean coast, just north of the Spanish border. 

Take the stress out of pairing wines with your holiday meals! My friends at Snooth are offering a wonderful six-pack of wines from the Roussillon region in the south of France for a budget-friendly $100 ($200 value). I had the pleasure of visiting Roussillon last year and spent time at some of the wineries featured in this impressive selection of whites & reds. Sunny and sultry, Roussillon is nestled in southern France between Spain, the Mediterranean Sea, the Pyrenees & the Corbières Mountains. Roussillon's distinctive and high-quality wines can be attributed to the fusion of French & Catalan culture, history of winemaking spanning two thousand years, diverse micro-climates, and talented winemakers.

I don't have a wine shop of my own but if I did, I would certainly showcase wines from Roussillon. Keep reading for descriptions of the wines included in Snooth's Roussillon Holiday Array 6-Pack, along with suggested food pairings. Click here to place your order. Cheers! 




Domaine Lafage IGP Côtes Catalanes Côte Est 2016
A blend of Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, and Roussanne from vineyards planted on Mediterranean sea-facing slopes, the three grapes commingle to produce generous citrus fruit aromas and bright acidity. Pair with Butternut Squash Gratin with Goat Cheese and Hazelnuts.

M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut White 2016 

A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, and Macabeu grown on limestone and clay soils, the flesh-fruit flavors are round and full. Pair with Juicy Roast Turkey.

 

Gerard Bertrand AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Grand Terroir 2015

Tautavel is a village in the Roussillon region located between the Pyrenees mountains and the Mediterranean Sea. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, ripe red fruit flavors are underpinned by bright brown spices. Pair with Mushroom and Parmigiano Bruschetta.

 

Mas Janeil AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages le Petit Pas 2014  

The blend of Grenache Noir, Syrah and Carignan is deepened with a dash Mourvèdre. The fruit flavors are darkened with hints of smoke and licorice. Pair with Pepper-Crusted Flank Steak.

 

Calmel & Joseph AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013 

Schist, sandstone, and clay limestone soils draw out new characteristics from this Rhône blend. The accolades for this wine are noteworthy: it received 16.5 points from Jancis Robinson and 90 points from Robert Parker. Dried, candied and thick jammy fruits dominate the palate. Pair with Baked Ham with Cherry Pomegranate Glaze.

 

Domaine La Tour Vieille AOP Collioure Rouge La Pinede 2016   

Fermented using wild yeasts, the age of the vines (Grenache Noir, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre) ranges between thirty-five and seventy years old. Black cherry dances with black olive on the palate accompanied by an undercurrent of vanilla. Pair with Holiday Pork Chops.

 

This is a sponsored post. 

The Secret's in the Slopes: Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Speak with winemakers and you'll notice a common refrain is repeated around the globe -- great wine starts in the vineyards. Few would dispute that the tiny, yet majestic, hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany is home to some of the finest vineyards in the world. And from those prized vines, Sangiovese Grosso grapes provide the foundation for one of Italy's most acclaimed wines - Brunello di Montalcino. But no two vineyards in Montalcino are the same and in a land of phenomenal wines, Val di Suga has a unique advantage: they are the only producer to own vineyards on the three slopes best suited to producing top quality Brunello. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Like many important things in life, it is the minutiae of location that really matters when we talk about vineyards. Factors such as elevation, soil types, and proximity to water all impact the flavor profile and quality of the grapes. With vineyards on three different slopes, with three different soil types, and three different exposures; Val di Suga has the ability to produce three entirely unique styles of Brunello that authentically reflect their terroir and microclimates. 


Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director for Bertani Domains says that Val di Suga's three single vineyards with three different terroirs enables them to "present Montalcino like no one else."

I recently had the opportunity to taste through Val di Suga's various expressions of Brunello di Montalcino with Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director of Bertani Domains (Val di Suga is part of their impressive portfolio.) If only my college geology class had included wine tasting, I would have been much more interested in soil types. And for anyone that thinks talk of terroir and minerality are nonsense, Val di Suga's wines are solid proof that wines can express a sense of place when their essence is respected in the winemaking process. 


Val di Suga 'Vigna del Lago' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($98) is produced from Sangiovese grapes grown in clay soil near Val di Suga's lakeside vineyard, Vigna del Lago, which is 886 feet above sea level and on the northern slope of Montalcino. The fresh and lithe quality of Vigna del Lago hints at the influence of its proximity to water. Not overly extracted, it is soft with slightly chewy tannins and a touch of chalky minerality mid-palate. 


The Sangiovese Grosso grapes for Val di Suga 'Vigna Spuntali' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($109) hail from the southwestern sea-facing slope -- the sunniest and driest of the three slopes. Historically, Vigna Spuntali has been known as the best area of the southwestern slope of Montalcino and the soils are a mix of sand and marine fossil debris. I found Vigna Spuntali a sexier and sultrier expression of Brunello with rich flavors of dark cherry, plums, dried figs, and blackberries. 


Stefano aptly describes Val di Suga 'Poggio al Granchio' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($88) as a "macho and bigger Brunello with big shoulders." The area with the highest altitude vineyards on the Montalcino hill, Poggio al Granchio's rich galestro (marl) soils are particularly conducive to growing expressive Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Poggio al Granchio is an especially terroir-driven Brunello with evocative flavors of black cherry, clove, licorice, red currants, and a tangible earthiness. 


Apart from the slope-specific Brunello wines, Val di Suga also produces wines that combine Sangiovese Grosso grapes from all three vineyards. Their Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($25) is an especially charming and lovely introduction to the Val di Suga style. Fresh and vivacious without sacrificing elegance and structure, this young red has soft cherry flavors with a tinge of white pepper bite.


Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($67) also blends grapes from all three vineyards and its nuanced red fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of tea leaves and mountain herbs. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

The expressive and authentic nature of Val di Suga should not have surprised me -- it is the trademark style of exceptionally talented winemaker Andrea Lonardi, technical director of Bertani Domains. Lonardi is endearingly obsessed with creating wines that are honest expressions of their origins. Whether you are a Brunello afficionado or just starting to explore these regal Tuscan wines, Val di Suga will captivate you. And if your travels take you to Montalcino, Val di Suga offers tours and tastings. I can't wait to visit one day.