Countess Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini represents the 26th generation of her illustrious Tuscan family to lead Tenuta di Ghizzano.
Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini doesn't need to introduce herself as a Countess to impress you. In fact, it wasn't until days after our meeting that I realized that the very cool lady that I had spent two hours wining, dining, and laughing with was in possession of a noble title and a family tree that includes Tuscan royalty, poets, and more than one palazzo. Ginevra's humility is certainly endearing and her wines don't need pomp and circumstance to get your attention because as she proudly proclaims, "my wines have a soul."
image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano
The family's estate, Tenuta di Ghizzano, is located in the Colline Pisane (Pisan Hills) south of Pisa near the Mediterranean Coast, and has been in the family since the 1300's. Such a long history might make others demur to tradition but Ginevra has not been afraid to innovate since taking over as the winery's director in 1996. Ginevra's first radical decision was to introduce organic and sustainable practices. In 2003, she went even further by launching their conversion to biodynamic winemaking -- in Europe they have earned rigorous certifications, including DEMETER Biodynamic Certified and in the US, Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are certified as made with organic grapes.
image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano
"I like to consider myself a 'natural winemaker'. In other words, I try to allow my wines to express their terroir as purely and as honestly as possible," says Ginevra. Not only does she eschew herbicides and other chemicals, Ginevra exclusively uses native yeasts to stimulate fermentation and minimally filters her wines.
Too often we speak of Tuscan wines as a monolith but there is tremendous diversity in this beautiful region of central Italy. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany's most famous appellations but the region is home to a multitude of officially defined winemaking regions; including the Terre de Pisa DOC and Costa Toscana IGT where Tenuta di Ghizzano produces their wines.
Il Ghizzano Bianco 2017, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the Tenuta di Ghizzano style. A blend of Vermentino (50%), Trebbiano (30%), and Malvasia Bianca (20%); the coastal influence of the soft sea breezes is apparent in this refreshing and crisp white wine. Easygoing and fruit-forward but nicely textured with a hint of salinity and a touch of minerality from the fossil-rich soils that were once covered by the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan
Il Ghizzano Rosso 2016, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) strikes that perfect balance between pretty and earthy. Mostly Sangiovese (95%) with a kiss of Merlot (5%), it has vibrant & fresh flavors of dark cherry and hibiscus with a mellow earthy thread that softly envelops the palate. Ginevra said that their estate's Sangiovese grapes are less acidic, less tannic, and a bit sweeter than those found in some other regions of Tuscany because of the soil and proximity to the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan
Veneroso 2014, Terre de Pisa DOC ($29.99) is Tenuta di Ghizzano's flagship wine and was first produced in 1985. A blend of mostly Sangiovese (70%) with a good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), the grapes were selected from the estate's oldest vineyards. Bold but not unwieldy, the more delicate flavors of the Sangiovese meld harmoniously with the more muscular Cabernet Sauvignon. Lush and rich without sacrificing freshness, Veneroso has an impressively long finish. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan
Family is at the heart of Tenuta di Ghizzano and in 1996 Ginevra created and named Nambrot to honor the founder of the Venerosi family, who lived in 830 AD. Ginevra believes that a wine's personality is "70% territory and 30% the grape variety." What better way to prove that point than by creating a blend of non-indigenous varieties that will display their core traits in a unique manner that expresses the terroir where they were grown? Nambrot 2015, Costa Toscana IGT ($39.99) blends Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (20%) to create a rich and concentrated wine with bold flavors of blackberries, cassis, and red fruits. Aged around 18 months in French oak casks, Nambrot's powerful fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of warm spice and a sultry savoriness. The grapes are global but the wine is absolutely Tenuta di Ghizzano. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan
image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano
I admire Ginevra's commitment to her family's legacy and to crafting honest wines that aren't over-manipulated. Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are delightfully drinkable but remain true to their origins and don't attempt to mimic a cookie-cutter style. The wines are widely available and if you're planning a visit to Tuscany, Tenuta di Ghizzano welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And if you really want to immerse yourself in their rustic yet elegant Tuscan lifestyle, accommodations are available at four renovated farmhouses on the estate. I've certainly added it to my wine travel wish list!
