Wine With Wanda

The Terroir Talks in the Tuscan Wines of Tenuta di Ghizzano

 

Countess Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini represents the 26th generation of her illustrious Tuscan family to lead Tenuta di Ghizzano.

Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini doesn't need to introduce herself as a Countess to impress you. In fact, it wasn't until days after our meeting that I realized that the very cool lady that I had spent two hours wining, dining, and laughing with was in possession of a noble title and a family tree that includes Tuscan royalty, poets, and more than one palazzo. Ginevra's humility is certainly endearing and her wines don't need pomp and circumstance to get your attention because as she proudly proclaims, "my wines have a soul."

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

The family's estate, Tenuta di Ghizzano, is located in the Colline Pisane (Pisan Hills) south of Pisa near the Mediterranean Coast, and has been in the family since the 1300's. Such a long history might make others demur to tradition but Ginevra has not been afraid to innovate since taking over as the winery's director in 1996. Ginevra's first radical decision was to introduce organic and sustainable practices. In 2003, she went even further by launching their conversion to biodynamic winemaking -- in Europe they have earned rigorous certifications, including DEMETER Biodynamic Certified and in the US, Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are certified as made with organic grapes.

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

"I like to consider myself a 'natural winemaker'. In other words, I try to allow my wines to express their terroir as purely and as honestly as possible," says Ginevra. Not only does she eschew herbicides and other chemicals, Ginevra exclusively uses native yeasts to stimulate fermentation and minimally filters her wines.   

Too often we speak of Tuscan wines as a monolith but there is tremendous diversity in this beautiful region of central Italy. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany's most famous appellations but the region is home to a multitude of officially defined winemaking regions; including the Terre de Pisa DOC and Costa Toscana IGT where Tenuta di Ghizzano produces their wines. 


Il Ghizzano Bianco 2017, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the Tenuta di Ghizzano style. A blend of Vermentino (50%), Trebbiano (30%), and Malvasia Bianca (20%); the coastal influence of the soft sea breezes is apparent in this refreshing and crisp white wine. Easygoing and fruit-forward but nicely textured with a hint of salinity and a touch of minerality from the fossil-rich soils that were once covered by the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Il Ghizzano Rosso 2016, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) strikes that perfect balance between pretty and earthy. Mostly Sangiovese (95%) with a kiss of Merlot (5%), it has vibrant & fresh flavors of dark cherry and hibiscus with a mellow earthy thread that softly envelops the palate. Ginevra said that their estate's Sangiovese grapes are less acidic, less tannic, and a bit sweeter than those found in some other regions of Tuscany because of the soil and proximity to the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Veneroso 2014, Terre de Pisa DOC ($29.99) is Tenuta di Ghizzano's flagship wine and was first produced in 1985. A blend of mostly Sangiovese (70%) with a good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), the grapes were selected from the estate's oldest vineyards. Bold but not unwieldy, the more delicate flavors of the Sangiovese meld harmoniously with the more muscular Cabernet Sauvignon. Lush and rich without sacrificing freshness, Veneroso has an impressively long finish. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Family is at the heart of Tenuta di Ghizzano and in 1996 Ginevra created and named Nambrot to honor the founder of the Venerosi family, who lived in 830 AD. Ginevra believes that a wine's personality is "70% territory and 30% the grape variety." What better way to prove that point than by creating a blend of non-indigenous varieties that will display their core traits in a unique manner that expresses the terroir where they were grown? Nambrot 2015, Costa Toscana IGT ($39.99) blends Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (20%) to create a rich and concentrated wine with bold flavors of blackberries, cassis, and red fruits. Aged around 18 months in French oak casks, Nambrot's powerful fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of warm spice and a sultry savoriness. The grapes are global but the wine is absolutely Tenuta di Ghizzano. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

I admire Ginevra's commitment to her family's legacy and to crafting honest wines that aren't over-manipulated. Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are delightfully drinkable but remain true to their origins and don't attempt to mimic a cookie-cutter style. The wines are widely available and if you're planning a visit to Tuscany, Tenuta di Ghizzano welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And if you really want to immerse yourself in their rustic yet elegant Tuscan lifestyle, accommodations are available at four renovated farmhouses on the estate. I've certainly added it to my wine travel wish list! 

A Wine That Sparks Memories: Secastilla Garnacha 2010

 

For Proust, a bite of a madeleine cookie triggered a flood of memories. For me, it was a sip of Secastilla Garnacha 2010 that transported me back to a very special day in Spain. Around this time last year, I made my second visit to Somontano, in northeast Spain, to tour Viñas del Vero's majestic Secastilla vineyards. A few nights ago, vivid memories of that trip came flooding back as I sat in my Manhattan living room sipping Secastilla Garnacha.

Secastilla Garnacha 2010 ($39.99)

I could smell the fertile fragrance of Secastilla's rain-drenched air and hear the staccato pitter-patter of raindrops on the roof of the tiny cabin where our group sought refuge. We nourished ourselves with laughter and thin slices of jamón that glistened with luscious threads of fat. I could feel the awkwardly comforting sensation of a stranger's bulky rubber boots on my feet because Secastilla's kind and observant winemaker, José Ferrer, had deemed my soaked sandals ill-suited for a trek in the mucky vineyard and tasked his colleagues with finding me more appropriate footwear. For anyone who doubts that wine can trigger a strong emotional response, they just haven't found their Secastilla: a wine with the power to transport you back in time. 

Award-winning wiinemaker José Ferrer. The 2012 vintage of Secastilla Garnacha was recognized as the best red wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.

A visit to Secastilla is not required to appreciate the transcendent beauty and superb quality of this wine. 100% Garnacha sourced from 100-year old-vines, Secastilla 2010 elegantly expresses the unique terroir of this magical valley overlooked by seven ancient castles that are the inspiration for its name. Exceptionally talented winemaker José Ferrer has crafted a wine that lives up to the splendor of these surroundings and conveys a genuine sense of this other-worldly vineyard that soars 700 meters high at the foot of the Pyrenees, embraced by almond and olive groves. Rich yet graceful, 10 months of aging in French oak imbues Secastilla Garnacha 2010 with a tinge of spice but does not overwhelm the rich and vibrant fruit flavors of black cherry with a touch of brambly forest fruits and licorice. A perfect red wine to pair with the heartier flavors of fall, Secastilla 2010 may inspire you to embark on an unforgettable journey to this magical place.  


I don't think I've ever been so happy to be caught in the rain -- the magic of Secastilla! 

Modern Day Marlborough Man: Sipping New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Noir with Nobilo Winemaker David Edmonds

 

Nobilo winemaker David Edmonds doesn't hesitate when asked what his biggest challenge is -- "It's letting people know that all Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc are not the same." Because Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is so popular, many people mistakenly believe there's only one uniform style. Often described as grassy, zesty, and easygoing; that's only one facet of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and David is determined to showcase the diversity and elegance of his homeland's most famous wine.

image courtesy of Nobilo Wines

By the age of 15, David was already certain that he wanted to be a winemaker but never imagined that he would hold this position at one of New Zealand's most iconic producers, Nobilo. The Nobilo story begins in 1943 when founder Nikola Nobilo arrived in New Zealand from his native Croatia. Armed with his family's 300 years of winemaking experience, Mr. Nobilo immediately saw the potential for Sauvignon Blanc to thrive in Marlborough's terroir and was truly a pioneer in the region. Nobilo's vineyards are spread throughout the sub-regions of Marlborough, the northeastern corner of New Zealand's South Island. One of New Zealand's sunniest and driest regions, Marlborough's combination of ideal temperature, topography, ocean breezes, and mineral rich soils combine to create a veritable utopia for Sauvignon Blanc grapes. 



Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($13)
"Natural acidity is our secret weapon," said David. And he's right. Vivacious and lively acid is the wave that carries the wine's juicy fruit flavors of pineapple, mango, and peach along with a subtle hint of green herbs. The grapes were sourced from Nobilo's vineyards throughout Marlborough. Crisp and refreshing, this charming white wine is a great aperitif. Not just for summer, Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect choice when it's cold outside but the indoor heat is blasting and you want something chilled and refreshing! 



Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($22)
If you think Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is just about easygoing zest, Nobilo Icon's elegantly restrained intensity and flinty minerality show the varietal's capacity for sophistication. Nobilo's flagship wine, the grapes for Icon are sourced from three special vineyards in the Marlborough region. David poetically describes Nobilo Icon's aroma as "the smell of thunder on the breeze." On the palate, he describes an "explosion of flavor" -- citrus, tropical, flinty minerality, passionfruit, white flowers, and a tad herbaceous. Nobilo Icon has the structure needed to pair with more substantial seafood dishes like monkfish, steamed mussels, and sautéed prawns. 



Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2016 ($22)
New Zealand has become one of my favorite regions for Pinot Noir and Nobilo Icon doesn't disappoint. The grapes are sourced exclusively from Nobilo's Castle Cliffs Vineyards in Marlborough's Awatere Valley. The 20-year old Pinot Noir vines produce small grapes with intense flavors and aromas. The wine was barrel aged for 10 months but retains impressive freshness and rich fruit flavors that are enhanced by a hint of warm toast. Exuberant and nuanced with gorgeous dark cherry, blackberry, strawberry, and rhubarb flavors, this wine has the capacity to age very well -- I tasted several older vintages with David and they were still fresh and vibrant after almost ten years. Pair Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir with some lovely New Zealand lamb -- heaven!!! Great recipes and wine pairings are available on the Nobilo website.


With 75 years of winemaking under their belt, vineyards in idyllic Marlborough, and the winemaker's passion for crafting Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines that authentically express the character of their special terroir; Nobilo wines are absolutely New Zealand yet display their own distinctive style.