As soon as it was decided that we would spend a week in Provence, I made a promise to myself that I would not wear a bra at any point during our stay in Southern France. It may seem like a silly thing, and feel free to accuse me of TMI, but my brazen bralessness was a reminder to myself to let go of all constraints and just be free. What better time and place than a Mediterranean summer to liberate myself? I didn't want to be uptight-following-the-rules New York Wanda but carefree and adventurous vacation Wanda.
After three bra-wearing days in Paris, I took the high speed TGV train with my pal K from Gare de Lyon to Aix-en Provence. The scenic ride through the French countryside takes about three hours and goes by in a flash. (An important thing to know about the Aix station - they charge 50 cents to use the restroom and there is a lovely attendant who politely but firmly requests the money.)
If you really plan on exploring Provence, a rental car is a must and GPS is an absolute necessity. We booked our vehicle through Hertz and the additional $20 a day for the GPS was worth every penny. Once we figured out how to program her to speak in English, the GPS helped us navigate the endless roundabouts and winding mountain roads. We also consulted our trusty Michelin Provence Green Guide to make sure we were following the rules of the road and to get the scoop on the towns we planned on visiting.
Our home for the week was a former sheep & goat stable in the mountain town of Saint Martin de Castillon (population 700, I was told) in the Luberon region. Provence rentals can be found on VRBO.com and I highly recommend booking at least 3 months in advance for the best options. We booked very late and all of our first choices were already reserved. Although the house we rented did not have a pool or a private outdoor space, it was spacious and a good base for getting around to other villages.
We visited many villages but Bonnieux and Ménerbes were two of my favorites. Bonnieux is a beautiful Luberon hilltop village that offers dramatic views of the Calavon Valley and Mont Ventoux. It has a fantastic traditional market on Friday mornings where you
can find amazing produce (including the legendary Cavaillon melons),
artisan soaps, meats, sweets, spices, clothing, and more.
Le Fournil's chilled almond soup with Cavaillon melon and chorizo was very refreshing and a unique mix of flavors and textures.
Ménerbes
A pretty hilltop village (they all seem to be on hilltops) on the north face of the Luberon, Ménerbes had a peaceful aura that was absolutely seductive. Perhaps that is why Picasso purchased a home here for his muse and lover Dora Maar. (Today the home houses the Brown Foundation Fellows Program.)
After exploring Ménerbes' winding streets, we indulged in a decadent lunch at the Michelin recommended Maison de la Truffe et du Vin du Luberon. The restaurant is housed in a stunning mansion and the terrace offers breathtaking views of the valley. The ambiance, food, and service were all impeccable.
How could I not take a picture of this curvy sculpture perched on the terrace of Maison de la Truffe et du Vin du Luberon?
When a restaurant essentially calls themselves the house of truffles, you expect truffles galore and Maison de la Truffe et du Vin did not disappoint.
Amuse Bouche of Raspberry Foam with Sliced Truffles
I like to call this dish Truffle Explosion - artichoke ravioli showered with truffles.
My trip to Provence created so many wonderful memories that I'll call upon for years to come. The sheer beauty and authenticity of the place demanded that I slow down, smell the lavender, take stock of my life, and shed my bra!
