View from the beach at Villas Amarte on Maroma Bay in the Riviera Maya. The Travel Channel called it the best beach in the world.
Luxury all-inclusive resorts and breathtaking beaches have made Mexico's Riviera Maya a coveted destination for travelers. But there is much more to this idyllic location than fun in the sun. Nestled between the jungle and the Caribbean Sea on the eastern portion of the Yucatan Peninsula, the rich culture of the Mayan people infuses many aspects of life in the Riviera Maya. We often talk of the Mayan civilization as if it were extinct but the culture never disappeared. In fact, study of the Mayan language is now required in public schools in the Quintana Roo province of Mexico. My recent visit to the Riviera Maya included a visit to a Mayan village, spa treatments inspired by Mayan traditions, and time to relax on those amazing beaches. Here are a few highlights.
As the Shaman Softly Speaks
I was invited to visit a thriving Mayan village and to participate in the sacred Temazcal (sweat lodge) ceremony. To say the least, it was one of the most unforgettable travel experiences of my life - both fascinating and overwhelming. To arrive at the village, our van rocked along a sliver of a dirt road in the jungle in the darkest night I have ever seen. After about 10 minutes, we finally reached a bustling community where children were running around, women were making tortillas by hand, and the men of the village were involved in preparations for an important religious ceremony.
Women in the Mayan Village preparing tortillas for our dinner. They were absolutely delicious.
After waiting for two more groups of visitors (from Italy and Mexico City) to arrive, we were led deeper into the jungle to begin the sweat lodge ceremony. Before entering the sweat lodge, the village Shaman (community leader), with the assistance of the Warrior of Fire led us in a ceremony that included incense, the blowing of conch shells, and the sipping of a libation made of honey, purified water and the resin of a local tree - it was actually pretty tasty. A slender man with a soft and melodic voice, the Shaman welcomed us in Spanish and spoke of the ancestors. Before entering the actual Temazcal, a low stone structure that represents the womb of the Earth, all guests disrobed down to their bathing suits. After blessing each of us, the Shaman handed each person a small rock to toss into the circle of fire outside of the sweat lodge and we were told to make a wish. Before crawling into the small opening of the sweat lodge, each person is asked to shout a greeting in Mayan and those already within respond in kind. (image courtesy Dos Palmas Ecotours)
Nervously, I crawled inside the Temazcal. As I sat there waiting for the others to shout their greeting and appear within that small portal, my anxiety grew. I knew that in a few minutes that the center of the Temazcal would be filled with volcanic hot rocks from the fire outside and that the tiny door would be closed, enveloping us in intense heat and darkness. Despite the heat, I was shivering in my black bathing suit. What to do? Out of respect, I wanted to complete the ceremony but I felt my heart beating faster and faster and knew that I could not. However, I did not want to be the first and only person to leave. After a few more agonizing minutes I saw the large figure of a man from the group of Italian tourists twist his ample body out of the Temazcal. I quickly followed, muttering sorry in English and Spanish. 2 more people followed after me.
About 30 minutes passed and the group that had remained within the sweat lodge marched by us en route to taking a cool dip in a cenote - a sink hole of water created from the collapse of limestone bedrock. Afterwards, I spoke with several of them during dinner and they described the sweat lodge as intense, in both heat and emotion, but they were glad they had done it. Looking back, I believe that a visit to a Temazcal is most appreciated by those on a spiritual quest. Although, I did not complete the ceremony, I was honored to be invited and I have the greatest respect for this Mayan tradition that has stood the test of time and has been passed on and preserved. The Temazcal is not a simple tourist attraction but a true immersion in a sacred ceremony. However, during my visit I found that key elements of the Temazcal manifest themselves in spa treatments that pay homage to this cherished tradition in a secular setting.
This home cooked meal prepared by the women in the Mayan village was wonderful - fire roasted chicken in sauce, rice and beans.
Darling, How Clean is Your Aura?
My aura was cleansed no fewer than three times while I was in the Riviera Maya. (Maybe living in New York City leads to really sooty auras.) Essentially, you are asked to close your eyes and relax while a small pot of fragrant incense and herbs is waved around you and affirmations are softly stated by the aura cleanser. This was also an important part of the Temazcal ritual and a version of this happened prior to my massages at Aroma Spa and the spa at Grand Velas.
The Aroma Spa at Esencia is located on the former estate of an Italian Duchess and is Riviera Maya's first organic spa - they grow many of the herbs used in their treatments right on the property and prepare them in a traditional Mayan inspired kitchen. Aroma also offers Temazcal inspired treatments in their domed steamed rooms. In addition to the spa, the 50 acre seaside estate offers luxurious guest accommodations and a gourmet restaurant.
The tranquil waiting area at Esencia's Aroma Spa
Grand Velas Riviera Maya
My other aura cleansing took place prior to my massage at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya, a luxury all-inclusive resort. Prior to the massage, I was treated to their water journey treatment which involved spending time in the sauna, steam room, clay room, ice room and plunge pool. (Tip: If like me, you don't have wash and go hair, remember to bring a plastic shower cap. I tucked it discreetly inside my bathing suit and used it as needed - it saved my coif, it really did!). The Grand Velas spa has 40 treatment rooms offering a wide variety of treatments, including a series of treatments called Journey Through Ancient Mexico, such as the Cocoa Ritual and the Sacred Obsidian Stone Massage, that incorporate medicinal herbs, sacred plants, and semi-precious stones. If you want the all-inclusive super luxurious resort experience, Grand Velas is a great choice. Just 35 minutes from Cancun International Airport, the Grand Velas property is divided into three sections - Zen (in the jungle about 3/4 miles from the beach), Ambassador (family-friendly ocean view suites) and Exclusive Grand Class (ocean-front, adults only suites.) Grand Velas also has 7 restaurants on site offering everything from haute Mexican cuisine to sushi.
Stop that Tickles! Fish Spa at Wayan Village in Playa Del Carmen
A very impressive sand structure on Playa del Carmen.
Playa del Carmen is not only a beautiful beach but a bustling shopping district. The main drag, La Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) is a bit overrun with touristy stores - this is where to go if you are craving Starbucks coffee, Ben & Jerry's ice cream, or want to buy some high end beauty products at UltraFemme. However, tucked amidst these big names is an eclectic emporium called Wayan Village. In addition to beach apparel, Wayan Village has some very unique offerings, including a healthy dining restaurant (try the hibiscus tacos), facials using natural fruits, and the Fish Spa.
Yours truly braving those tickly fishies.
Who cares if this treatment has been banned in several American states? I was determined to try it. Wayan Village has 4 tanks full of fishes that are just waiting to feast on the dead skin on your feet. (There really is no pretty way to describe it!) The fish are a variety of tiny toothless carp from Turkey called Garra Rufa. Since they don't have teeth, the treatment doesn't hurt, it just feels really strange to have a cluster of tiny fishes sucking on your feet for dinner. After 15 minutes, my feet felt somewhat smoother but the fish can't compete with a really good pumice stone. Nonetheless, it was a fun, if slightly creepy, diversion.
Solitude Between the Jungle and the Sea: Amarte Maroma
The pool at Hotel Amarte.
During my time on the Riviera Maya, I was a guest of the Hotel Amarte, a complex of bungalows within a jungle garden about a mile away from the beach (transportation is available at scheduled times to the beach in the morning). If you desire an alternative to the all-inclusive resorts that dominate the Riviera Maya, the Amarte is an option for someone who prefers rustic accommodations and solitude. The rooms at Amarte Maroma do not have televisions or clock radios but they do have wireless internet access and air conditioning. Amarte is currently building an on-site spa that should be open to guests in the new year.
The exterior of the bungalow where I stayed at the Hotel Amarte.
The breakfast that was delivered to my bungalow. Getting to dine outside was a nice treat for this Manhattanite.
A bungalow interior at the Hotel Amarte.
For more luxurious accommodations right on the beach, opt for a stay at Villas Amarte, a collection of three private beachfront residences overlooking Maroma Bay, on the beach that the Travel Channel called "the best in the world." The villas have ocean views and amenities such as flat screen televisions and furnished outdoor terraces. For an additional fee, butler and private chef services are available.
Various Views of the Villas at Amarte
The Amarte Maroma complex also houses an art gallery, a piano bar, and the Pavo Real restaurant which is helmed by Chef Guillaume Raynal. Chef Raynal trained at some of the most respected restaurants in Paris, including Le Fouquet's and the Hotel Ritz. He is also an accomplished chocolatier.
Also, if you are looking for a gorgeous spot for a beach wedding or other celebration, Lolita on the Beach is available for rental. A private beach on the curve of Maroma Bay, Lolita has a thatch-roofed bar in the sand with a paved dancing and dining patio, a stone-floored dining pavilion and a thatched open-air wedding chapel.
Plan Your Trip to the Riviera Maya
Whether you are looking to fully immerse yourself in the Mayan culture or just skim the surface, there is more to see and do in Riviera Maya than I could ever include in a single blog post. The official Riviera Maya website is a great resource - the site has information on spas, hotels, resorts, adventure seas, dining, and more. From sweat lodges deep in the jungle to luxury seaside resorts, there are options to suit every taste and budget. Buen viaje!
