On a chilly winter night in New York City I don't just want dinner, I want to escape. A simple meal won't suffice when this girl is hungry for big flavors, a warm ambiance, and the desire to feel temporarily transported away from the chaos of city life. Aurora in Soho was the answer to my prayers.
Located at 510 Broome Street, Aurora's rustic dining room is decorated without pretension. Wooden tables and chairs perfectly complement the exposed brick and roughly textured walls. The room is warmly lit by candles that flicker in small brown paper bags on the table. My Italian-American dining companion who has traveled throughout the country exclaimed that she felt like she was back in Italy.
Executive Chef Riccardo Buitoni (that is him in the snazzy glasses) has a portfolio of authentic Italian restaurants that includes the 6 year old Aurora in Williamsburg (Brooklyn), the 2 year old Soho location and a soon-to-open third eatery, also in Soho, on Mott Street. Known for Italian artisan cuisine, the menu at Aurora changes based on the availability of seasonal provisions. The regular menu is quite impressive but we opted for the wine pairing dinner. Reasonably priced at $40 per person, the meal includes 3 courses each paired with a different Italian vino. Offered on Monday evenings, each month the wine pairing dinner will feature a different region of Italy. Chef Buitoni kicked off the series in February with a culinary showcase of the flavors of his native Piemonte.
Located on the northwestern border of Italy with France and Switzerland, Piemonte is surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Italy which secured the city of Turin's selection as host for the 2006 Winter Olympics. The hearty cuisine of pasta, fowl and meat is the perfect match with the cold winter months.
Our tasting of Chef Buitoni's hometown favorites began with Vitello Tonnato (roasted thin sliced veal loin with traditional capers and lemon mayonnaise) and La Terrina (warm pig trotters terrine with pickled vegetables salad). Diners get to choose from one of two first courses so we each opted to order something different so that we could do our due diligence and taste everything. Light and fruity with a hint of dryness, the Dolcetto d'Alba (Carlo Boffa 2006) paired perfectly with both dishes. Tender and perfectly sliced, the veal was given a nice spark by the capers and subtle lemon flavors. The silky texture of the terrine contrasted nicely with the acidic flavors and crunchy textures of the pickled veggies.
One of the standout dishes of the evening was Il Risotto. A vibrant shade of red that demanded attention, the Satur farm beet risotto with goat cheese from Piemonte was a perfect melding of flavors. The natural sweetness of the beets paired with the savory cheese was simply heaven. Too bad you can't stroll into the kitchen and ask for seconds at a restaurant. The Maltagliati was also delicious - chestnut flavored pasta with quail ragu is a perfect stick-to-your ribs winter dish. Every bite is worth the extra time on the treadmill. As expected, these hearty courses were paired with a full bodied wine. In this instance, the Barbera d' Alba (Ruggeri Corsini 2006).
The final course consisted of one option but what an option it was - deceptively simple but so very delicious La Polenta. Although sharing corn origins with my beloved southern grits, I find that polenta retains more of the natural corn flavor. Just to make absolutely sure that you don't leave hungry, Chef Buitono serves his soft and creamy polenta with mixed porcini & wild mushrooms, gorgonzola fondue, Berkshire spare ribs ragu & homemade meatballs. How does one tackle so many flavors? Scoop some polenta on your plate and then sample each of the dishes separately using the polenta as your base as it enthusiastically absorbs the flavors of the sauces. Toast this fabulous meal with a glass of Nebbiolo Langhe (Carlo Boffa 2006).
For dessert, a moist chocolate cake with strawberries and a glass of sweet wine is the perfect ending and worth ordering a la carte.
I enjoyed every morsel of my dinner at Aurora but the exceptional service and cozy ambiance made the evening truly one to remember. We lingered for 3 hours and although the dining room was bustling, our charming waiter Markus never rushed us. Extremely knowledgeable about the menu and the wines, this musician could even spare a few minutes to chat about the Grammy awards. Not only will I go back to Aurora, I will certainly add manager Giancarlo's Italian movie suggestions to my Netflix queue. Meeting the chef is always a treat and Buitoni did not disappoint. His culinary talent is undeniable but Chef Buitioni is also down-to-earth and gracious.
Aurora Ristorante is indeed in Manhattan but entering that dining room transported this weary New Yorker into a cocoon where the plate is always full, the wine easily flows, and the only stressful moment comes when you realize that you can't stay all night. But there's always tomorrow.
For more information, visit www.aurorasoho.net.