The Black Dress Traveler

Good Morning Baltimore!

Although one of my dearest friends is from Baltimore, I must confess that everything I think I know about the city comes from watching John Waters movies and The Wire - talk about two extremes! Well, I was thrilled to hear about all of the fun and exciting things happening in Bawlmer, including new restaurants and fun festivals.

New Restaurants

Wit & Wisdom, A Tavern by Michael Mina
Four Seasons Baltimore, Harbor East
Wit & Wisdom offers a menu inspired by the cuisine of the mid-Atlantic region, focusing on the Eastern Seaboard’s culinary heritage. Keeping the area’s history in mind, the restaurant offers American cuisine featuring locally sourced ingredients, prepared through classical wood-fire-grilling and hearth-cooking techniques - it sounds delicious! I would definitely pay Wit & Wisdom a visit - I had a chance to dine at Michael Mina's restaurant at the Bellagio in Las Vegas and the food was great.

Waterfront Kitchen
1419 Thames Street, Fell’s Point
Waterfront Kitchen is located on the first floor of Fell’s Point’s Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Museum. The menu, designed by long time local chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks Restaurant, emphasizes seasonal ingredients, including those grown by participants in Living Classrooms Foundation's BUGS (Baltimore Urban Gardening with Students) program. BUGS, which serves inner-city grade school children, maintains a greenhouse and gardens just a few blocks away.

Special Events/Arts & Culture

Touch and the Enjoyment of Sculpture: Exploring the Appeal of Renaissance Statuettes
The Walters Art Museum
January 21-April 15, 2012
This groundbreaking show will explore the implications of tactile perception for enjoying sculpture by melding the research of a Johns Hopkins University neuroscientist studying how the brain reacts to tactile stimuli and a Walters’ curator interested in the increased appreciation of tactility as an aspect of European Renaissance art – a period marked by a new availability of small “collectibles” meant to be held.

Maryland Film Festival
Maryland Institute College of Art/The Charles Theater
May 3-6, 2012
Designed to advocate for films and filmmakers as they enter the marketplace, the Maryland Film Festival celebrates the art of film in the tradition of famous Baltimoreans like John Waters and Barry Levinson. Documentaries, short films and features are screened at several locations throughout the city.

HonFest
Hampden
June 9-10, 2012
Get out your teasing comb and Aqua Net, hon! Baltimore’s annual celebration of all things “Bawlmer” takes place along 36^th Street in Hampden and pays tribute to the neighborhoods, distinctive dialect and people of Baltimore. Enjoy live music, classic Bawlmer foods and Hampden’s eclectic merchants, and indulge your bouffant cravings and inner hon at the Glamour Lounge.


To learn more about what to see, do, and eat in Baltimore, check out the Visit Baltimore website.

Chic & Tasty: Dinner at La Promenade des Anglais in NYC

Getting to know a restaurant is a form of courtship. A good first impression is vitally important but it takes more time to determine if your culinary crush has the potential to bloom into a full-fledged, committed, delicious love affair. After two visits to La Promenade des Anglais, I feel good about our future and that we will continue yummily ever after!






I have been a fan of Chef Alain Allegretti's upscale yet soulful cuisine for several years but his sexy new restaurant in NYC's Chelsea neighborhood is by far the best showcase of his talent and personality. A native of Nice, Allegretti honed his craft in France and New York and has worked alongside the legendary Alain Ducasse and other culinary icons.

In November I had a fantastic lunch at La Promenade des Anglais and looked forward to heading back for dinner to taste some additional dishes. In addition to the expanded menu, the evening ambiance is very vibrant and festive. Joined by a friend, we settled into our velvet cushioned booth and took our tastebuds on a trip to the Mediterranean.

Kale and Red Cabbage Salad
Duck Prosciutto, Pomegranate, Shaved Mushrooms & Cheese, Candied Walnuts
I ordered this salad at lunch and enjoyed it so much that I insisted we have it for dinner. The crispiness of the kale and cabbage, the crunchy sweetness of the walnuts and pomegranates contrast nicely with the savory duck prosciutto,mushrooms, and cheese. And, look at those gorgeous colors - everything is so fresh!

Prosciutto and Clam Croquettes
Espelette Chili Oil
Don't try to be dainty - skip the knife and fork and eat these perfectly fried croquettes with your hands. Take a bite and prepare for the crispy exterior to yield to a seductively creamy interior of very finely chopped littleneck clams, prosciutto, and bechamel.  Creamy, salty, and crispy - these croquettes are a trifecta of deliciousness.

Whipped Ricotta
Thyme, Honey, Grilled Country Bread
So simple yet so sublime - perfectly grilled high-quality bread waiting to be lavished with a blend of creamy ricotta, thyme and honey. As a native New Yorker, I have to say this would make a great schmear for a bagel! I might try to whip this spread up at home.


Provencale Fish Soup
Garlic Croutons, Gruyere, Classic Rouille
This soup is the dish that I most associate with Chef Allegretti and it is one of my favorites - I first tasted it years ago at one of his former restaurants. It may look simple but it is a perfect composition of saffron, garlic, and seafood that has been simmered to perfection. And, those garlic croutons with lush gruyere are meant to be placed in the bowl of soup to soak up all the rich flavors. This is comfort food at another level. I recently dined at another French restaurant and their fish soup was a major disappointment - Chef Allegretti's excellent version is my benchmark.

Arctic Char with Duck Fat Potatoes
Chef Allegretti is smart enough to know that a really good piece of fish does not need to be fussed with too much - just cooked perfectly and seasoned lightly. The skin on the Arctic Char was  crisp and the duck fat potatoes are a nice touch of decadence.


Pork Belly
Balsamic Glazed, Grilled Radicchio, Chestnut Polenta
Pork belly is popping up on menus everywhere and this is one of the best interpretations that I've tasted. The subtle sweetness of the balsamic glaze is the ideal contrast to the saltiness of the pork. And, the earthiness of the chestnut polenta tastes like winter. This appetizer is substantial enough to enjoy as an entree.

La Promenade des Anglais is located at 461 West 23rd Street in New York City. I highly recommend it for the sophisticated yet unpretentious food and lovely setting. Another plus - the restaurant is just steps away from the must-visit High Line park.

A New York Minute: La Promenade des Anglais

With all of my daydreaming about exotic getaways, I plead absolutely guilty to taking New York City for granted. My hometown remains the number one destination in the USA for overseas travelers for very good reason - NYC has superb entertainment, eats, and energy! To make amends, I am launching a new segment on my blog called A New York Minute to highlight what's fabulous and glamorous in the Big Apple. Whether you are a tourist or a local, don't miss the chance to see and be seen in NYC!

One of my favorite chefs, the very talented Alain Allegretti, has just opened a gorgeous new restaurant in Chelsea - La Promenade des Anglais. Named after a celebrated seaside promenade in Nice, the cuisine is inspired by the French Riviera with subtle Italian influences. The menu will rotate seasonally to showcase high quality ingredients at their peak. I had lunch there yesterday and was seduced by the luxurious setting and exceptional cuisine. A welcome taste of the Mediterranean in Manhattan, I can't wait to go back to La Promenade for dinner.

 

 

 

I love the Mediterranean blue velour banquettes, ornate ceiling, and brass light fixtures in the dining room at La Promenade - very elegant yet warm and inviting.


I ate every morsel of my Trofie. The tiny little pasta spirals were perfectly prepared with heirloom tomatoes, capers, olives, and juicy ventresca tuna. Ventresca comes from the belly of the tuna and is prized for its rich flavor and velvety texture. I could easily eat this dish several times a week.


The swanky bar at La Promenade is the perfect spot to rendezvous and flirt. Ooh la la!


Zucchini Pound Cake sounds deceptively simple but Chef Allegretti's interpretation is enhanced by the addition of olive oil gelato and pine nut brittle. The moist texture of the cake meld beautifully with the smooth gelato and the crunchy brittle.

La Promenade des Anglais is located at 461 West 23rd Street between 9th and 10th Avenues.


images courtesy of La Promenade des Anglais

Never Too Much New Orleans: Plan Your Fall Getaway to the Big Easy

I've only been to New Orleans twice but it has secured a place in my heart. Long time readers know that I love destinations with delicious food and charming gentleman and NOLA has both in abundance. A city of resilient people with big hearts, New Orleans ALWAYS moves forward - even in her darkest hour. After all, this is the city where jazz was born and NOLA's soundtrack is sultry, swinging, and strong.

Recently, I was chatting with some friends who have never been to New Orleans and we are thinking of visiting as a group in the fall. I'm still in the early stages of planning our excursion but I have some pretty cool suggestions. Let the good times roll!

Where to Stay


Do the Big Easy in style and rest your head where literary giants Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote stayed - the legendary Hotel Monteleone. The largest hotel in the French Quarter, Hotel Monteleone is celebrating their 125th anniversary this year and is in the midst of an impressive $15,000,000 upgrade to their restaurants and other public areas. Ideally located just a block away from the bustle of Bourbon Street, Hotel Monteleone puts you in the perfect spot to explore NOLA's restaurants, shops, and clubs. Within the hotel, pamper yourself with a spa treatment at the Spa Aria or a refreshing dip in the rooftop pool. Dining options at Hotel Monteleone include The Hunt Room Grill and Le Cafe. Order a classic Vieux Carre cocktail at their revolving Carousel Piano Bar and Lounge - the only bar in New Orleans that revolves around the room. The bar always revolves at the same speed but after a few cocktails you may think the pace has picked up!

Festivals

Everybody knows that New Orleans knows how to party! Mardi Gras may be the best known, but the Crescent City hosts many festivals throughout the year. Here are a few happening in the fall months that celebrate the city's love for food, music and the arts.

New Orleans Seafood Festival (September 9-11)

  Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival (October 14-16)

New Orleans Film Festival (October 14-20)


Where to Eat
Cochon Restaurant
Chef/Co-Owner Stephen Stryjewski won the prestigious James Beard Award for "Best Chef South" in 2011. Known for authentic Cajun cuisine, as the name implies, pig reigns supreme at Cochon. The restaurant receives whole pigs and oversees an in-house Boucherie, creating tasty boudin, andouille, smoked bacon, and head cheese. The menu also features handmade crawfish pies, rabbit and dumplings, and spoon bread with okra & tomatoes. No calorie counting allowed!

Live Music
You can't visit New Orleans and not head over to Frenchmen Street to hear some live music. I'm a big fan of HBO's Treme and each week they feature real New Orleans musicians doing their thing! I would love to see Kermit Ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers on my next trip. All aboard!

 

For more tips on planning your autumn or anytime vacation to New Orleans, visit www.neworleanscvb.com.

Eating It Up in the Big Easy

Listen up ladies, I know we all want to look fabulous in our little black dresses but your figure will forgive you for a few days of delicious excess in New Orleans. I have decided that calorie and carb counting is strictly off-limits during my Big Easy getaway. After all, a vacation is a time to escape the rules of everyday life and to soak up the flavors of your destination. It just so happens, that in New Orleans, those flavors are bigger, bolder, and better than most. So, in the name of research, expanded knowledge may come with an ever-so-slightly expanded waistline. When you're letting the good times roll, you have to let go and enjoy. And, I can get back on track when I return home but until then....

I kicked off my personal culinary festival with some damn delicious Red Beans and Rice with Andouille Sausage at the Gumbo Shop in the French Quarter. My dining companion opted for the Jambalaya and said it was perfect. Sipping lemonade in their tiny garden while enjoying delicious homestyle cooking really set the tone for this trip. After lunch, I took a short stroll to Jackson Square and enjoyed some amazing jazz performed by street musicians. 

Red beans and rice with andouille sausage


Jambalaya

Jazz musicians outside St. Louis Cathedral

After walking off some calories along the Mississippi River, I rested up and dolled up for dinner at the legendary Commander's Palace. A meal here can get expensive but how often do you get to dine at an American restaurant that has been around since 1880? Definitely, you must go for a drink and to soak in the ambiance. And, the cab ride to Commander's Palace is a great way to get a tour of the Garden District. ( I would love to know what's happening behind the closed doors of those majestic Victorian mansions.) From their signature cocktail menu, I ordered the Holly Berry (Stoli Citrus Vodka, Chambord Liqueur, Pama Pomegranate Liqueur and Fresh Lemon). For dinner, an entree of Tabasco & Garlic Seared Shrimp. The shrimp were served over creamy and bold cracked-corn jalapeno grits.

This morning, I opted to skip breakfast in anticipation of my lunch reservation at La Cote Brasserie. I had the pleasure of meeting Executive Chef Chuck Subra several years ago at a New Orleans fundraiser in NYC and was thrilled to finally visit his acclaimed restaurant. La Cote is located in the heart of the Arts District in the historic 1910 Union warehouse. Connected to the Renaissance Arts Hotel, the dining room at La Cote is spacious and modern. You can watch Chef Subra and his team work their magic in the open kitchen.

We started with appetizers of perfectly cooked Butter Poached Escargot with Herb Garlic Butter, Pernod and Pesto Crumbs and hearty & smoky Duck & Andouille Gumbo.  The Cochon de Lait (roast pork) Po' Boy featured a pile of spicy juicy pork piled inside a crusty toasted baguette served with fantastic fries.

 

That's me in a little blue dress with Chef Chuck Subra


Butter Poached Escargot


Duck & Andouille Gumbo


Cochon de Lait Po' Boy and Fries

The portions at Le Cote Brasserie were so generous that I packed up my leftovers for dinner tonight. Now what will I eat tomorrow?  Beignets here I come!

Ten in My Town: Elizabeth Bard's Paris

American girl goes to Paris. Meets charming French man. Falls in love with Monsieur Right and French cuisine. Lives happily ever after. Yes, this may sound like the plot of a Hollywood movie, but welcome to Elizabeth Bard’s life. Her new memoir Lunch in Paris: A Love Story with Recipes is chock full of engrossing prose and tasty meals. (Click here to read my review of the book.)

Elizabeth told moi, "there's a lot I've discovered in France - not just about effortless chic, but about how we as women can make better choices - pleasure and ambition, love and self." Although she has been busy traveling the world on her book tour, Elizabeth generously agreed to share a few of her favorite places in the City of Lights. Let her picks guide you to a great meal in Paris, or maybe even a romance of your own. Ooh la la!

 PS. Elizabeth will be making an appearance at Barnes & Noble (Tribeca, NYC) on Weds. April 7 at 7:00 pm.


To Buy the Perfect Little Black Dress – Galeries Lafayette. They have everything – and if you don’t find your little black dress, you can go shopping for a hot red lipstick underneath the breathtaking stained glass dome. If you want some color – go try one of the raw silk wrap dresses from Antoine et Lili. For browsing – I’d hit the small streets around rue du Dragon and rue de la Cherche Midi in the 6^th.

For a Night Out with the Girls - I find ice cream inspires girl talk better than alcohol – get yourself a double scoop of Berthillon on the Ile Saint Loius. Cacao Amer (bitter dark chocolate sorbet) is my favorite.

For a Romantic Dinner - Picnic on the tip of the Ile Saint Louis. 

To Take Out of Town Guests - We usually end up at L’Homme Bleu – a terrific Moroccan place, for tagine. We are lacking a favorite French place at the moment (ours changed hands a few years ago), but we often take people to Chez Denise near Les Halles – it’s one of the holdouts from the area’s market days – in fact, it used to be a brothel. The portions are huge (I love the cote de boeuf and the lapin au moutard), but save room for dessert – they make the best baba au rhum in Paris! The place is very well known, you should book – and you’ll probably be eating with an equal number of tourists and locals. 

For Something Sweet - Ladurée for macaroons (I’m a purist, so I tend to stick with vanilla, lemon, pistachio, and orange flower water (fleur d’oranger). Jean Paul Hevin for hot chocolate – it’s a quick walk from the Louvre, the tearoom is just above the shop. The hot chocolate is divine, and it’s much less crowded and touristy than Angelina’s. La Bague de Kenza – This Algerian bakery makes the best North African pastries in Paris. Choose in the boutique and have your pastries delivered to the tearoom next store.

For Cocktails  - I’m not a cocktail drinker in Paris – plant yourself at any sidewalk café with a glass of wine and watch the world go by. My neighborhood, along the Canal Saint Martin, is great for going out…if you like hipsters and men who haven’t shaved…

To Connect with Nature - The Buttes Chaumont is my favorite park in Paris. Sculpted from the ruins of one of Napoleon III’s old gypsum quarries, it has rolling hills, a man-made lake (complete with swans), and a fake waterfall.

To Connect with the Past - I’m a museum fanatic – but I prefer to have the place all to myself. The Louvre is open late on Wednesday evenings – and it’s completely empty! If you haven’t been to the Musée Jacquesmart Andre, do go – it’s the mansion of a 19^th century industrialist and his wife - much like the Frick collection in NY. Check out the hydraulic walls in the ballroom! There’s a great English Audioguide.

Where I Go to Unwind  - The market – every neighborhood has an outdoor market on a different day of the week; it’s a Paris experience that shouldn’t be missed! The markets are open from 8am-1pm, so get up early, grab a croissant and an expresso in a local café – then do your shopping for a lunchtime picnic. Ask your hotel (or local café) which days you can expect a market near you.

To Learn Something New - When I’m searching for inspiration. I usually end up at Librairie Gourmande – the best cookbook shop in Paris. Most of the cooking supply stores are on this street as well, so you can pick up some madeleine molds etc. on your way…

If you are interested in art history and design (and speak fairly high level French) – the week long summer courses at the Ecole de Louvre are a great value. The focus can be as specific as Art Deco doorknobs or as broad as “Paris under Henri IV”.

Morocco in El Barrio: The Kiosk Restaurant in Spanish Harlem

The magic of Marrakech and the charm of Casablanca is just a subway ride away in East Harlem. One of my favorite places in the growing El Barrio culinary scene is The Kiosk, a charming eatery that serves Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine.
The colorful decor and sweeping wall murals are the perfect backdrop for Chef/Owner Mounir Najd's flavorful and fresh cuisine. Drop in for breakfast, weekend brunch, happy hour drinks, lunch, or late night hookah service. The Kiosk also has live jazz on Thursday nights.

I'm still having a great time working my way through the menu at The Kiosk but I am crazy about the perfectly seasoned Moroccan eggs (baked eggs with merguez sausage, onions, tomatoes, herbs & spices served in a clay tagine). And, the sweet little shots of Moroccan tea are absolutely addictive!

The Kiosk is located at 80 East 116th Street. www.mnkiosk.com

What the?: New York NOT On List of World's Best Cities To Eat Well

Forbes Magazine recently published a list of the World's Best Cities To Eat Well and my hometown of New York City was not included. How can this be? Not only does New York City have some of the finest gourmet restaurants in the world but authentic cuisines from every corner of the globe can be easily found in the Big Apple. London was also notably missing from this culinary countdown. The article says, "Unfortunately, for these inarguably delicious cities, the local cuisine just isn't as dynamic as in other parts of the world." Well, I never!  

According to Forbes, "the list is derived from the 2009 Anholt-GfK Roper City Brands Index, released in June. It surveyed 10,000 people from 20 countries--each chosen for geographic and economic diversity--in April of this year. It asked them to rank 50 cities on such varied subjects as climate, physical attractiveness, restaurants and nightlife. Cities were judged on lifestyle, buzz, multiculturalism and attractiveness."

Of their selections that I have visited, Barcelona is my favorite thus far. I will have to make a point of visiting the other places to see if they really outshine New York City. Ok, I'll get over my hurt feelings and share their list with you. Tell me what you think. What cities would you add to this list?

1. Paris
2. Rome
3. Tokyo
4. Mexico City
5. Barcelona
6. Madrid
7. Hong Kong
8. Beijing
9. Milan
10. Shanghai

Bring Your Own Wine When You Dine: New Website Lists BYO Restaurants

One of the most expensive parts of a restaurant meal can be ordering that fantastic bottle of wine, so I am a big fan of eateries where you can bring your own bottle (byob). GoBYO.com is a great new website where you can search for restaurants in 10 U.S cities that permit patrons to bring their own vino. Featured cities include New York, Atlanta, Boston, San Francisco, and Chicago. 

I searched GoBYO.com and was pleasantly surprised to discover the number of well-known restaurants in my town, the Big Apple, that have BYO policies. The site also tells you each restaurant's corkage fee (the fee the restaurant charges you to open and serve your bottle of wine) - if any. GoBY0.com also has wine ratings, wine merchants, and state BYO regulations. Restaurants can get listed on GoBYO.com at no charge.

One of my favorite things to do when I travel is visiting local wine shops, so I can't wait to use GoBYO.com to help me find the perfect bottle of wine to eat with my dinner at an out-of-town restaurant.

For more information, visit www.gobyo.com.

Tastebud Travels: My Perfect Provencal Lunch at Allegretti

I've never been to Provence but my taste buds are convinced that we traveled to the South of France after my perfect lunch at Allegretti. Located at 46 West 22nd Street in NYC's Chelsea neighborhood, Chef Alain Allegretti's namesake restaurant showcases the vibrant and fresh flavors of his native Provence. The flavors are big but not convoluted and I am not embarrassed to say that I cleaned my plate on every course. Perfectly seasoned and elegantly presented, each dish was richly flavored without being too heavy and overwhelming my palate. Drop by for a drink and an upscale nibble at the inviting bar or allow Chef Allegretti to whisk you away on a complete culinary journey to Provence in the main dining room.  In addition to the a la carte menu, Allegretti is currently offering prix fixe menus at lunch ($28. Monday-Friday) and dinner ($42. Monday - Saturday.) Here are a few photos from my lunch. Alas, I did not save room for dessert but I plan on remedying that situation in the near future. Bon appetit!

Sardines 'In Saor'

tian of roasted tomato, avocado, fingerling potato, hearts of palm, tomato coulis

Provencale Fish Soup

garlic crouton, gruyere cheese, classic rouille

 

 

This is how the soup looks after you spread the rouille and gruyere on the croutons and let them abosrb all of the spicy goodness of the broth.

 

Nicoise Ravioli

stuffed with braised oxtail and swiss chard, parmesan, orange beef jus