The Black Dress Traveler

Love Lust & The Little Black Dress on the Sundance Channel

I love the fact that even the men in my life update me whenever they hear any LBD related news! My brother Glenn, aka the serious film guy, told me that he saw the documentary "Love Lust & The Little Black Dress" on the Sundance Channel's schedule and knew that he had to tell his dressaholic sister about it.

Score one for little brother! This saucy little documentary did a clever job of melding fashion history and modern sartorial trends. Did you know that the LBD is the only garment listed in the Oxford dictionary by its initials?

From Hollywood to the White House and from the runway to the streets, the LBD is everywhere and Love, Lust & The LIttle Black Dress traces that journey. When Coco Chanel, inspired by the nuns from the orphanage of her childhood, debuted her little black dress in 1926 it changed the way women looked and felt about themselves. Coco bid adieu to the bustles and bright colors of the Victorian age that covered women from head to toe. Fast forward to the 1980's and American designer Donna Karan liberated American women from those dreaded boxy power suits and put the little black dress back on the map. And, of course, Audrey Hepburn and the iconic Givenchy LBD that she wore in Breakfast at Tiffany's is featured in the film along with Jackie O, Princess Di, Mrs. Obama, Rita Hayworth and so many other ladies who made history in their little black dresses.

If you are looking for a way to make your couch potato time a little more glamorous, spend an hour watching Love Lust & The Little Black Dress. The documentary is scheduled to show on Sundance throughout February and March.

Style from the Nile and On Museum Mile: Cleopatra & American Woman Exhibitions

Can we be honest and admit that not every museum exhibition is exciting? There, I said it. I love art but a stuffy museum is more boring than watching paint dry. If you want to see two glamorous and captivating exhibitions, I recommend American Woman: Fashioning a New Identity at New York City's Metropolitan Museum of Art and Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia.

It took excessive amounts of self-control to restrain myself from asking the security guard at the MET where the fitting room was located. The American Woman exhibition is a decadent display of little black dresses and a wide variety of gorgeous gowns. If ever I wanted to embark on a life of crime and pull a museum heist, it was yesterday. American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity focuses on "archetypes of American femininity through dress, the exhibition reveals how the American woman initiated style revolutions that mirrored her social, political, and sexual emancipation." 

From Gibson Girls and Suffragettes, from riding habits to evening gowns, American Woman showcases creations by iconic designers such as Worth, Lanvin, and Poiret. The audio guide is narrated by Sex and the City fashionista Sarah Jessica Parker. Another highlight is the multi-media presentation set to Lenny Kravitz's rock tune American Woman that includes photos and video images of Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Onassis, Beyonce, Rosa Parks, and prominent American women of all ages and cultural backgrounds.
(image: La Sirene by Charles James. 1941)


Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt reveals that Hollywood wasn't entirely wrong - her life really was a soap opera! Egypt's last Pharaoh, Cleopatra was a legendary beauty and powerful leader who married her brothers, had love affairs with her enemies, and apparently loved to shop.

"Organized by National Geographic and Arts and Exhibitions International, with cooperation from the Egyptian Supreme Council of Antiquities and the European Institute for Underwater Archaeology (IEASM), the exhibition features never before seen artifacts, and takes visitors inside the present-day search for Cleopatra, which extends from the sands of Egypt to the depths of the Bay of Aboukir near Alexandria."

In addition to important historical information that dispels many myths about Cleopatra, the exhibition includes eye-catching displays of beautiful gold jewelry and other luxury items. Also, did you know that current research suggests that the dramatic eyeliner worn by Cleopatra and others may have helped ward off eye infections? A smokey eye with medicinal powers - Sephora are you listening?

There's No Place Like New Orleans: 3 More Things I Love About the Big Easy

I'm back home in the Big Apple but my mind keeps wandering back to the Big Easy. Just a few days ago I was strolling along the Mississippi River and now I'm fighting my way onto the 6 train during rush hour. Go figure. 

So, with Kermit Ruffins playing in the background as I snack on a praline from Leah's, I've decided to take a mental holiday and look at some of the photos from my trip. Here are just three of the reasons why I'm a fan of NOLA.

Talking to Strangers: Please don't tell my mother, but I spend the majority of my vacations striking up conversations with strangers. I had some great exchanges with folks in New Orleans on topics ranging from Hurricane Katrina to Hubig's Pies. One conversation inspired me to hop a streetcar to the Treme neighborhood for lunch at a popular restaurant called Two Sisters (this is NOT the restaurant with the same name in the French Quarter).

 

This heaping plate of food may not be pretty but it was DELICIOUS!  If you want to try finger-licking, down-home cooking, hop the Canal Street streetcar and get off at Claiborne Avenue. This heaping plate of rice and peas, juicy neckbones, potato salad and cornbread was only $8.50! Two Sisters is open Monday-Saturday from 8:00 am - 5:00 pm. (Tel: 504-524-0056).

Another helpful stranger that I met was this handsome fireman. Oh my. Need I say more?

Music, Sweet Music: It makes sense that the birthplace of jazz  knows how to swing. Everywhere you go in New Orleans, you hear fantastic musicians playing their hearts out. These street musicians may not be famous but they have an abundance of talent.

History Everywhere You Turn: How can one small city be so rich in history? If you're an old soul like me, who prefers a crumbling mansion to a gleaming skyscraper, then you gotta love New Orleans.

    Congo Square, located inside Louis Armstrong Park, is where slaves and free people of color would gather on Sundays in the 19th century. The African dancing and drumming that occurred at the Congo led to the development of Jazz. (The park was closed during my visit so I could only gaze at the square from outside the gate.)

Sometimes I felt like I was back in Spain.


I love these romantic courtyards that pop up in the French Quarter


Playwright Tennessee Williams had an apartment here at 623 St. Peter's Street. They say this is where he worked on his masterpiece A Streetcar Named Desire.

Thank you New Orleans - you are one beautiful, resilient, charming and unique city! Watch out, I'll be back in my little black dress.

Home to Grace Kelly & Sylvia Plath: Vanity Fair Remembers the Barbizon Hotel for Women

One of the most interesting articles in the April 2010 issue of Vanity Fair is Sorority on East 63rd Street - a lively chronicle of the legendary Barbizon Hotel for Women on New York City's Upper East Side. 

Now a luxury condo building, during it's heyday the Barbizon housed young women with big dreams, including Grace Kelly, Joan Crawford, Ali McGraw, Liza Minelli, Joan Didion, Cybill Shepard, and Sylvia Plath. During her stay, Ms. Kelly was known for "performing exotic dances in the hallways, while scantily attired, and for her facility in in arranging covert romantic assignations in the darker corners of the hotel lounges." Way to go Grace!  

Although fellas, including famous ones like Ricky Gervais, now live at the Barbizon, surprisingly the Big Apple still has women's only residences where gentlemen are only allowed in the lobby. Read the November 2009 New York Times article Where the Boy's Aren't for more information about the Webster Apartments, the Brandon Residence for Women, and the Jeanne D'Arc Residence.

I must admit that whenever I walk by the Barbizon, the theme song from the 1980's sitcom Bosom Buddies pops into my head. Starring Tom Hanks and Peter Scolari as two men in drag who move into an all women's hotel in NYC when their apartment is demolished, Bosom Buddies showed that people will do just about anything for cheap rent in Manhattan.

Remembering the Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition at Discovery Times Square

We all know how the story ends, yet the world remains fascinated by the ill fated maiden voyage of the Titanic. An estimated 705 people survived and more than 1,500 passengers perished in 1912 when the "unsinkable" luxury ship struck an iceberg in the frigid Atlantic Ocean. Titanic never reached the intended destination of Chelsea Piers in New York City, but today many of her artifacts are on display during a limited engagement at the Discovery Times Square Exposition.

Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition features the largest collection of Titanic artifacts recovered from the wreck. More importantly, the exhibition makes a concerted effort to tell the stories of the families, immigrants, clergy, socialites, and titans of industry who boarded the Titanic full of hope and enthusiasm only to encounter disaster 4 days later. Upon arrival, all visitors to Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition receive a replica boarding pass with the name and bio of an actual passenger. The journey through the exhibition's artifacts and replicas concludes at the memorial wall where visitors discover if the passenger on their pass was lost or saved.  

First class passenger, and Titanic survivor,  Margaret Brown became known as the "Unsinkable Molly Brown." Brown took charge of her lifeboat and went back to the sinking ship to rescue more passengers from the freezing water. Our kind of girl!

    
Replicas of the Titanic's first class and third class cabins. 
 
I was amazed at the number of personal items that were recovered from 12,460 feet below the ocean's surface such as shoes, jewelry, hair brushes, currency, purses, and even vials of perfume with their scent reportedly still intact 97 years later. The exhibition also features a stunning recreation of the Titanic's legendary Grand Stairway and an eerie ice-cold replica of the lethal iceberg. Foodies will be enthralled by the intact china dinnerware, set of au gratin dishes, and copies of the dinner menus. Tapioca consomme, anyone?

actual au gratin dishes from the Titanic

 Click here to learn more about Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition.  

Ten in My Town: Alva Johnson's Atlanta

From where to buy the perfect little black dress to the best spot for a romantic dinner, reaching out to local ladies with a zest for life is one of the best ways to get the inside scoop on a destination. Ten in My Town asks savvy ladies to name their top ten picks for the places to see and be seen in their hometowns. Our first stop is the land of juicy peaches, sweet tea, spicy reality TV drama queens, and so much more – Atlanta! Glamorous Georgia girl and globetrotter Alva Johnson is our guide to this sexy southern city.

Alva Johnson
Co-Founder, Independent Champagne and Sparkling Wine Invitational
www.icswi2010.com

Whether staffing 22,000 temporary employees for the Olympic Games, training personal assistants for celebrities such as Vera Wang and The Dave Matthews Band, or planning large scale events in Brazil and Germany; Alva Johnson is the consummate planning professional. As the co-founder of the Independent Champagne and Sparkling Wine Invitational (ICSWI), which will take place in New Orleans in April 2010, Alva brings the same energy and enthusiasm to bubbles that she’s used to ignite crowds worldwide. Alva passionately believes champagne isn’t just for special occasions – it’s the ultimate celebration of life! Let Alva's Ten in My Town picks inspire you on your next trip to Atlanta.  

1. To Buy the Perfect Little Black Dress - I love to shop at Fa'brik in Buckhead or Wish in Little 5 points. Both have sexy yet eclectic styles. Fa'brik is more designer driven while Wish has more fashion-forward options.

2. For a Night Out with the Girls - The St. Regis Hotel Bar- great crowd, cool atmosphere...after that possibly Club Opera or The Cheetah (this IS Atlanta).

3. For a Romantic Dinner - Canoe or Joel. Canoe when I want to see the Chattahootchie River or Joel when I want great French food and sexy atmosphere. 

4. To Take Out of Town Guests - my favorite local place by my home, Bistro VG's (formerly Van Gogh's). I live in the suburbs, 45min from the city, so I take out of towners to my favorite place by my home.

5. For Something Sweet- Bistro VG's again or Krispy Kreme. Bistro VG's for great crepes and homemade sorbets. Krispy Kreme for those days I do not have to fit into my little black dress.

6. For Cocktails - Drinkshop in The W Hotel Downtown or my home is pretty infamous for Champagne gatherings.

7. To Connect with Nature - my backyard...one of the great things about living in the suburbs is having a large backyard, a lake across the street, and a brook flowing in my back yard. My backyard is a haven for butterflies, they congregate in my yard and I love to step out of my stilettos and just be.

8. To Connect with the Past - Auburn Ave. in Atlanta. This is a historical street which has the Martin Luther King Center and Ebenezer Baptist Church.

9. Where I Go to Unwind - to the kitchen. I love to cook and naturally I have lots of great wine and champagne at my home, so my kitchen is a great source of relaxation. I pop a bottle of champagne, and enjoy it while I create a feast. My children love to cook with me so I buy them sparkling grape juice which makes them feel "fancy."

10. To Learn Something New- Easy one- the library, any library, usually the library at Crabapple Middle School (my son's school). I have always been an avid reader, a true lover of books, and any time I can spend in the library is a happy moment for me. I go to my son's school library without him knowing until he sees me in the hallway or the librarian tells him I've been there for hours.

Shoofly Pie and Wine: Five Things I Just Learned About Pennsylvania

It all started with a slice of pie. Shoofly pie to be exact. Apparently, I am the only person on the planet who had never tasted this sticky sweet confection of molasses and brown sugar with a crumb crust.

A Pennsylvania Dutch staple, each bite of Shoofly pie made me realize how very little I know about the Keystone State (aka the Quaker State or the State of Independence). Sure, I can rattle off some Philly trivia (Benjamin Franklin, Brotherly Love, cheese steaks, the Liberty Bell, Patti LaBelle) but Philly is just one city in a state of more than 12,000,000 people. Energized by the sugary goodness of the Shoofly pie, I was determined to learn more about Pennsylvania. If my list below inspires you to visit PA, log on to www.PAStories.com to enter a sweepstakes to win one of 12 fantastic Pennsylvania vacation packages.

1. Wine - Who knew that Pennsylvania had more than 100 wineries? With approximately 14,000 acres of grapes, Pennsylvania ranks 8th nationally in the production of wine. There are several wine trails you can visit, including the Groundhog Wine Trail, Brandywine Wine Trail, and the UnCork York Wine Trail.

2. Beer - Not only is Pennsylvania home to Yuengling,the oldest brewery in the United States but it also has six breweries that pre-date prohibition - more than any other state. Today there are more than 50 brew pubs and small breweries in Pennsylvania.

3. Art - The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh is the largest museum in the world dedicated to the work of one artist. Fallingwater, Frank Lloyd Wright's architectural masterpiece, is located in the Laurel Highlands just an hour away from downtown Pittsburgh.

4. Snacks- Being the home of iconic brands like Hershey's, Heinz, Frito-Lay, Herr's and UTZ have secured Pennsylvania's position as the "Snack Food Capital of the World." Klondike Bars, Whoopie Pies and Shoofly Pie were all invented in Pennsylvania.

  5. Scenery - Pennsylvania has 17 million acres of forest and 83,000 miles of rivers and streams. National Geographic named Route 6 as one of the top 10 scenic drives in the country.

To learn more about Pennsylvania, visit www.VisitPA.com.

Six Simple Reasons to Love Savannah

Forsyth Park. The Fountain was created in 1858.

Although my maternal roots are in Georgia, I had never visited the state's First City, Savannah, until a few weeks ago. The Savannah in my mind was a mystical town of ghosts and modern-day eccentrics roaming bucolic plazas and streets lined with Spanish moss. And, of course, for many of us John Berendt's brilliant book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil first sparked our interest in the "Hostess City."

Founded in 1733, Savannah has had many years to create her colorful past.  However, Savannah today is not only heartbreakingly beautiful but a vibrant town where history and modern times meld like peaches and pastry in a most delectable cobbler. And, I do like cobbler! Artsy without being pretentious, down-to-earth without being common, Savannah is so easy-to-love. Here is my list of six things to love about Savannah. The list has no particular order, rhyme or reason and is by no means a definitive list of what to do in this town that offers so much. Savannah is a great destination for the solo traveler, couples, families, and groups of friends.

1.  The new Avia Hotel: The Avia Hotel may be the new kid in town but it fits beautifully into Savannah's historic district. If the sign of a good hotel is never wanting to leave, then the sign of a great hotel is secretly hoping that you miss your flight so that you can plead with the Front Desk to let you back in your room. The Avia is a great hotel. This luxury boutique property just opened in Savannah's historic district and is one of the best situated hotels in town. The Avia is just steps away from Paula Deen's Lady & Son's Restaurant, the City Market, the Riverfront, and the shops at Broughton Street.

 

More than a great location, the Avia offers lushly appointed rooms, a friendly staff, and a fantastic restaurant and wine bar. They even have their own blend of organic coffee. Thoughout the hotel a scrolling motif, inspired by Savannah's cast ironwork, appears in the carpets and upholstery. The view from the Avia will only get better once renovations are completed on the plaza directly across the street. The 42 inch plasma television and Dean & Deluca snacks might tempt you lounge in your room but then you would miss out on having a delicious Savannah Sparkler (imagine a mojito made with prosecco instead of rum) at the wine bar.

 

 

 

My room at the Avia

 

2. The People: When traveling alone you really depend on the kindness of strangers, not just to point you in the right direction but to engage in conversation and give you the insiders view of their town. Savannahians love their city. They know they live in a great place and enjoy talking about it. Friendly shopkeepers, funny cabdrivers and attentive waitstaff made my trip a real pleasure. Even the local shady characters were interesting for a really short conversation.

 

3. The Parks and Plazas: Savannah has the distinction of being America's first planned city and the brilliance of that plan included gorgeous squares. No matter what direction you walk in the historic district, one of Savannah's 21 squares (there used to be 24) provides an oasis of green and blooming flowers where you can stroll or just sit. Each square has its own unique charm. Savannah is very much a walking city and the open container law makes it possible to enjoy a cocktail while you stroll.

 

 

Thank you to the British tourist who snapped this photo of me. He was in Savannah for the first time too and we spent 10 minutes chatting about how much were both enjoying our visit.

 

4. The Honey House (Savannah Bee Company): Wine tastings are a dime a dozen but a honey tasting? Quicker than I could say "orange blossom", Beekeeper Clay Culver guided me through a tasting of 7 different honeys. From sweet Tupelo to buttery winter white, each honey had a distinct flavor profile. Founded by Savannah native and beekeeper Ted Dennard, the Savannah Bee Company also sells natural body care products. You can even buy a completely edible honeycomb - it pairs perfectly with cheese and fruit. Clay and Ted are so passionate about beekeeping that I came this close to buying the beekeeping starter kit. Bees not included.

 

 

A flight of Savannah Bee Honeys

 

 

Beekeepers Clay Culver and Ted Dennard

 

5. The Paris Market & Brocante: This two level emporium exudes warmth and sophistication. Spacious but cozy, the Paris Market actually feels like several specialty boutiques under one roof. The impressive selection includes high end candles, furniture, vintage books, jewelry, bedding, and even candy. The wide range of price points makes the Paris Market very accessible. Although I only purchased a box of cookies and a tin of French mints, they patiently wrapped my items in tissue paper and placed them in a lovely shopping bag. You have to love a store that makes a budget shopper feel like a million books.

 

The Paris Market

 

6. Dinner at Garibaldi's- More than one Savannahian told me that Garibaldi was one of their favorite restaurants and now I know why. The menu is a delicious fusion of low country seafood with continental and even Asian influences. One of the most popular dishes at Garibaldi's is the Crispy Flounder with Apricot Shallot Sauce, Pasta and Vegetables. I tried the Shrimp Risotto Cake (shrimp sauteed with country ham and cream) and yes, it is as decadent as it sounds. I opted to enjoy my dinner at the bar and the waiters kept me smiling! Chef Gerald Green even came out to say hello and insisted that I eat dessert. When in Savannah....

 

Dessert at Garibaldi's

 

Of course, there are more than six wonderful things I could share with you about Savannah. This low-country treasure was the birthplace of legendary songwriter Johnny Mercer and on more than one occasion I caught myself humming Moon River as I walked along the riverfront. There are some places that you visit once and you check them off a list but Savannah not only inspires songs but a fervent desire to return again and again.

 

For more information about Savannah, please visit www.Savannahvisit.com.

 

Beyond the Wind: Charm & Change in Clayton County, Georgia

The Virginia Reel Deal

 

Dancers in period costumes at Stately Oaks Plantation

Slightly dizzy, I catch glimpses of pretty belles in hoop dresses coyly sipping peach punch as my partner spins me around the candlelit room.  Dressed in the dapper attire of a Southern gentleman of the 1860’s, he is patient with my clumsy efforts to master that most proper of Victorian party dances, the Virginia Reel. We do-si-do across the wooden floors of the old one room schoolhouse that shares the grounds of the appropriately named Stately Oaks plantation house. I find it impossible to completely focus on the dance.  The sound of my own neurotic voice in my head drowns out the sound of the live banjo music. What the hell am I doing? Why in the world is a New York born, African-American woman and descendent of Southern slaves, partying like it’s 1860 at a plantation in Clayton County, Georgia?

My Mother’s Georgia

Like many African-Americans in their 30’s, I have reaped the benefits of the Civil Rights movement of the 1960’s although I contributed absolutely nothing to the cause. I was not even a thought in my parents’ minds when Dr. King was marching throughout the South for freedom but my life has been indelibly shaped by the actions of those brave men and women that put their lives on the line for equality. I was born in New York City but I always state that I grew up in a very Southern household.

My Mom migrated to New York City from Georgia as a teenager and my Dad from North Carolina. Our household was in the heart of Manhattan but the soul of our home was Southern. From the foods we ate to the occasional spankings I received, my parents had left the South but the imprint of their upbringing remained.  Having endured segregated schools and countless indignities in the South, my parents cherished the freedoms of New York City but remained true to the core family values that had made it possible to survive during those dark times. 

So imagine my Mom’s surprise when I told her that I would be spending 3 days in Clayton County, Georgia, which bills itself as “The Official Home of Gone with the Wind.”

“Why, are you going there? Be careful, it’s still the South,” she firmly stated.

Be careful. Those words rang in my ear. Did I really have to be fearful of the South? After all, I kept hearing about the new South.  Atlanta, in particular, was a mecca for Black professionals, students and celebrities.  But I would not actually be staying in the city of Atlanta.  Would traveling a mere 15 minutes south on Interstate 75 to Clayton County transport me into a twilight zone of colored only drinking fountains and second class treatment?
 
All Roads Lead to Tara

 

Exhibition at The Road to Tara Museum

I checked-in to my comfortable room at the Comfort Suites in nearby Stockbridge and began my exploration of Jonesboro.  No trip to Jonesboro would be complete without a visit to The Road to Tara Museum which celebrates all things Gone with the Wind.  Written in 1936 by Margaret Mitchell, this epic Civil War novel was made into an equally epic movie in 1939 starring Vivian Leigh and Clark Gable. Let’s be honest - many Black people are not big fans of Gone with the Wind and the film evokes a range of emotions from sadness to anger. Gone with the Wind focuses on the lives of the white slave-owners and the Black characters only purpose in life is seemingly to joyfully serve their masters.  Did Hollywood really think that we would get excited about a film that perpetuated the myth that Blacks enjoyed slavery?

With this in mind, I enter the Road to Tara Museum with some trepidation. Jonesboro was chosen as the site for the museum because Margaret Mitchell drew inspiration for her Pulitzer Prize winning book from her hometown. Her family, the Fitzgeralds, had owned a plantation in Jonesboro and as a little girl Mitchell spent a great deal of time hearing first hand accounts of the Civil War.  (Or the War of Northern Aggression, as it is sometimes referred to in the Southern states.) However, the plantation named Tara that Mitchell wrote about does not exist and never did. Tara was inspired by reality but was a fictional portrayal of a plantation home.

A small museum, many of the objects at the Road to Tara came from the personal collection of local collector Herb Bridges.  I actually had the opportunity to lunch with Mr. Bridges at the lovely Pinehurst Tea Room in Stockbridge.  A charming gentleman of a certain age, Mr. Bridges grew up in rural Georgia and is a former mail carrier. While sipping sweet tea and dining on salad, Mr. Bridges told me that his comprehensive collection had started simply enough with a signed first edition copy of the Gone with the Wind.  Years later, Bridges had amassed a collection so impressive that it made $350,000 at an auction at Christies. 

Hello Hattie

 

Hattie Over My Shoulder

Visitors to the Road to Tara Museum can view painstakingly accurate reproductions of the film’s costumes (including the famous curtain dress), copies of the various international editions of the book, and other memorabilia. During my visit, the Museum was featuring an exhibition that showcased Hattie McDaniel.  The first African-American to win an Oscar, McDaniel played the role of Mammy in Gone with the Wind. Boisterous, big-boned and asexual, Mammy’s world revolved around Miss Scarlett – getting her dressed, feeding her, and mildly reprimanding her for her bratty ways. Criticized by many African-Americans for her participation in Gone with the Wind, McDaniel replied, “I would rather play a maid than be one.”  Be that as it may, surely McDaniel must have felt angry and hurt when the racism of the day forbade her from participating in the televised Academy Awards.  Instead, she had to receive her accolade at a separate luncheon. The exhibition includes a stunning and bittersweet photograph of Ms. McDaniel, dressed to kill with a flower in her hair and smiling radiantly on the day she received her Oscar. I leave the Road to Tara Museum with mixed feelings but appreciative of the opportunity to learn more about Ms. McDaniel. Her road was not an easy one to travel. The Road to Tara Museum reminds me that history is not always pleasant but should not be forgotten.   Stepping out into the sweet Georgia sunshine, I take a deep breath and leave Tara behind. 

Change You Can See

Have things changed? Now more than ever, change has become a buzzword in our country. Barack Obama is the first African-American to receive the nomination of a major party for President of the United States. Obama delivered his acceptance speech at the 2008 Democratic Convention on the 45th anniversary of Dr. Martin Luther King’s “I Have a Dream” speech. With eloquence and passion, in 1963 Dr. King wished for an America where a man would be judged by the content of his character and not the color of his skin.  In Jonesboro, I saw people of all colors, lined around the block to place their early vote for the next American President.  In this small Southern town, in a state that had seceded from the Union over the peculiar institution of slavery, Blacks and Whites had the option and the right to cast their vote for a Black man.  On November 4th, Barack Obama, won the popular vote and the electoral college and was elected the 44th President of the United States of America. Change, indeed.

Of Hot Dogs and Icons

  Holy Hot Dog! The Varsity in Downtown Atlanta

(photo courtesy The Varsity)

Georgia and good hearty eating go together like biscuits and butter. I hopped right in the car when 2 of my colleagues suggested heading into downtown Atlanta for hot dogs at the legendary Varsity. No one seemed to care that we had just finished gorging on delicious deep-fried goodness at the Chick Fil-A.  The world’s largest drive-in, the Varsity opened in 1928 and can accommodate 600 cars and over 800 people inside.  As a young man, comedy legend Nipsy Russell worked at the Varsity as a car-hop.  We enter the Varsity and I am speechless at the size of the place. I was expecting a humble hot dog stand but the Varsity is a veritable wiener arena. Really, you could hold a football game in this place.  People of all ages and colors are eating and conversing.  Reading the pamphlet that provides a glossary of the Varsity lingo, I can’t help but smile when I see that even a humble hot dog is not immune from the Civil War -   a frank with mustard is listed on the menu as a Yellow or Yankee dog. 

Standing in line, I notice that the profile of a man standing in front of me looks vaguely familiar. Where have I seen that face? Finally, he turns just-so and it becomes crystal clear that it is the former Mayor of Atlanta, first African-American Ambassador to the United Nations, and Civil Rights pioneer Andrew Young.  I am stunned. Just yesterday, I was transfixed by an exhibition at the National Archives in Morrow, Georgia that included a photo of Dr. King and Andrew Young marching together in Birmingham in 1963. 

    

Andrew Young and Dr. King

In a room with many empty tables, I was beyond thrilled when Andrew Young chose to sit at the table right next to ours. We politely exchanged greetings. Being so close to such an iconic figure from the Civil Rights movement felt like a positive omen for the rest of my trip.  Truly, my journey to Georgia, and the other places I have traveled without hesitation, were made possible not only by my desire to do so but because brave individuals like Mr. Young fought inequality and made it possible for African-Americans to experience life without limitations. I looked at my two dining companions, both white males, and smiled inside. We were simply colleagues, peers and friends enjoying some laughs and a bite to eat. Our ease together made it hard to believe that there was a time in this country that we could have been arrested, or worse, for seeing beyond color.

Back at the hotel in Stockbridge, I stretch out on the bed and close my eyes.  One hand on my stomach and the other on my forehead, I feel full all over. My tummy is bursting from the fried chicken sandwich and hot dog chaser I had greedily indulged in. My head is about to explode with all that I had experienced.  More than anything, I feel conflicted about the next event on my itinerary – dinner at Stately Oaks Plantation.

Plantation Apprehension

  Stately Oaks Plantation

Plantation. I hate that word. For me it conveys images of sweaty and bedraggled slaves picking cotton, beatings by heartless overseers, and weary Black families in ramshackle cottages far from the grandeur of the big house trying to make a delicious meal of scraps.  Yet, I came to Clayton County to directly encounter the past, not just read about it, so a visit to Stately Oaks is a must.

Located in the Margaret Mitchell Historical Park in Jonesboro, Stately Oaks is an 1839 Greek revival antebellum home.  On a superficial level, the home is absolutely lovely and exudes country charm.  Sharing the property is the last one-room schoolhouse used in Clayton County and Juddy’s Country Store where you can purchase Moonshine Jelly, local honey and ice-cold bottles of Coca-Cola from a vintage cooler. Walking the dusty grounds, I imagine the steps that my ancestors on other unknown plantations had taken before me. While they were forced to work the land, I was here as a guest to enjoy dinner and entertainment. Were the ancestors angry? Or would they be happy to see one of their own being treated as an equal? Didn’t their unpaid labor and blood, sweat and tears make Stately Oaks, and every other plantation in the South, also a part of my cultural inheritance?  Hesitating for a moment at the threshold, I step inside Stately Oaks. Volunteers from Historical Jonesboro are decked out in authentic costumes and lead visitors though the rooms. I can’t help but admire the simple elegance of the décor – peach colored window treatments, an impressive walnut canopy bed, precious wooden crib, and even a sublime wedding dress from the era.

Scarlett, Melly, Margaret & Dr. Smith

Melly Meadows channels Scarlett O'Hara

While all of the re-enactors are superb, it is Scarlett O’Hara the steals the show. Jonesboro native Melly Meadows has toured the world portraying Scarlett and she brilliantly captures Vivian Leigh’s essence in both appearance and demeanor.  Dolled up in a fetching white dress and dramatic red cape, in true Scarlett fashion she reprimands me for showing my ankles, a definite no-no for a Southern lady of her time.  Of course, during Scarlett’s time, we wouldn’t be partying together!

After we shared a hearty meal of fried chicken, black-eyed peas, biscuits, and peach cobbler catered by local favorite Gina’s Restaurant, Scarlett/Melly stands up and takes us back in time.  A truly gifted storyteller, she painted a picture of Margaret Mitchell that was unknown to most. While everyone knows that Mitchell is the creator of Gone with the Wind, most people don’t realize that in her own life she made significant contributions to improve the lives of African-Americans.

Margaret Mitchell, author of Gone with the Wind

In 2002, Mitchell’s estate contributed $1.5 million to Morehouse College – a prestigious historically Black academic institution for men. However, Mitchell’s ties to the Black community go back much further.  Scarlett/Melly had my undivided attention when she shared how Margaret Mitchell was kicked out of the Atlanta junior league for volunteering with the city’s Black clinics. It also turns out that Mitchell was the benefactor of Dr. Otis Smith, the first African American to be certified as a pediatrician in Georgia. As a student at Meharry Medical College, Smith worked numerous jobs to pay for his education but he ran out of money the first year. Reluctantly, he told the President of the school that he had to leave as a result of his dire financial situation.  Smith was advised by the President not to worry. Shortly thereafter, Smith was told that his tuition and living expenses had been paid. 35 years later, Dr. Smith found out that Margaret Mitchell had paid for his entire medical education. It was later revealed that Mitchell had made similar anonymous scholarships to 40-50 other Black students in her lifetime. Dr. Smith passed away in 2007.  Not only was he a physician but a past president of the Atlanta chapter of the NAACP and founding member and chairman of the Margaret Mitchell House and Museum. Yes, a Black man ran the organization committed to preserving the legacy of the author of Gone with the Wind.  Powerful. It demonstrates that the personal connections that we forge as humans can triumph over conventional wisdom and prejudices.

Dr. Otis W. Smith, Founding Member Margaret Mitchell House & Museum

Nothing to Fear

My three days in Clayton County have come to an end and I am reminded of my mother’s words. Be careful, she had warned.  Instead of fear, I feel empowered and encouraged. Spending time with the past filled me with a tremendous sense of gratitude for my life today.  But my visit was more than a trip down memory lane - Clayton County is modern, vibrant and bustling. The arts scene in particular can’t be ignored. Spivey Hall, located on the campus of Clayton State University, is an elegant and acoustically perfect 392-seat gem that draws diverse musicians of international renown.  The Arts Clayton Gallery on South Main Street in Jonesboro is a thriving example of how the community is committed to preserving the past while celebrating change and diversity.  Before its dazzling transformation in 2004, the gallery’s previous incarnations included a Pure gas station and a featured appearance as the warehouse location in the 1976 film Smokey and the Bandit.  Four murals on the side of the building chronicle key moments in Clayton’s history but inside the Arts Clayton Gallery exhibits and sells fascinating art created by Georgia artists of all backgrounds.  Looking ahead, Patrick Duncan, the charming and visionary President of the Clayton County Convention & Visitors Bureau is excited about long term plans for a multi-cultural center in the county that will highlight the African-American, Native American and immigrant experience.

Spivey Hall

Arts Clayton Gallery

Everyone speaks of Southern hospitality and I was certainly greeted warmly and fed well.  But I would also like to acknowledge Southern adaptability. Change, even when it is for the best, ain’t easy. Yes, Clayton County does embrace their Gone with the Wind past.  More than just a draw for tourists, Margaret Mitchell’s tale of the South is a part of history and always will be.  Not everyone wants to follow the Road to Tara, but Clayton County is also forging a new path that values and acknowledges the important contributions of those who were too often forgotten. That’s a road I want to travel.

Helpful Clayton County Websites

Clayton County Convention and Visitors Bureau and The Road to Tara Museum
www.visitscarlett.com

Melly Meadows
www.mellymeadows.com

Chick-Fil-A
www.chick-fil-a.com

Pinehurst Tea Room
www.pinehursttearoom.com

The Varsity
www.thevarsity.com

Stately Oaks
www.historicaljonesboro.org

Art Clayton
www.artsclayton.org

Spivey Hall
www.spiveyhall.org

National Archives of the Southeast Region
www.archives.gov/southeast

Georgia Archives
www.sos.georgia.gov.archives

Comfort Suites (Stockbridge)
www.comfortsuites.com