Matanzas Bay Sunset
(photo courtesy St. Augustine Record)
What’s a girl to do when Spain fills her dreams but there is no time to cross the Atlantic? Pack a weekend bag full of sexy frocks and sashay down to St. Augustine, Florida! America’s oldest city, St. Augustine, is a sophisticated cocktail of old-world Spain and Southern hospitality right in the United States. Located just one hour from Jacksonville, St. Augustine is easy to reach and oh-so-easy to love. Simply chic, St. Augustine is a perfect getaway for a diva in need of a time-out or a couple looking to recharge their romantic batteries. Take a sunrise walk along Matanzas Bay, hop the trolley to visit the attractions, explore narrow cobblestone streets, indulge in down-home and gourmet cuisine, and maybe even share your lodgings with an elusive ghost.
History in a Dixie Cup
The Fountain of Youth
Founded 42 years before Jamestown and 55 years before the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock, St. Augustine is the oldest permanent European settlement on the North American continent. First discovered by explorer Don Juan Ponce de Leon in 1513, St. Augustine was officially founded when Spanish admiral Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles landed at the Timucuan Indian Village of Seloy on August 28, 1565 – the Feast Day of St. Augustine.
Aviles may have named St. Augustine but Ponce de Leon is perhaps the bigger celebrity thanks to his eternal connection with the Fountain of Youth. (Just goes to show that obsession with youth is nothing new!) One of the biggest attractions in St. Augustine, Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of Youth is a winning combination of history, folklore and natural beauty. Feeling connected to the past is unavoidable as you stand just a breath away from the very spot where Ponce de Leon claimed the land for Spain with a cross made of stones embedded in the ground. Gurgling quietly near the cross are the famed waters of the Fountain of Youth.
That Magic Water
Is there something magical in the water? I drank three cups just in case. One of the staffers at the Fountain of Youth whispered to me that many of the long time workers do really believe that the water keeps them healthy. Sure, the water is slightly sulfurous and a little cloudy but that’s a small price to pay for the possibility of eternal youth! And how often do you get to actually taste history? The Fountain of Youth is truly a multi-sensory location where the sights, sounds, and aromas make it easy to feel the past. If you want to incorporate the Fountain of Youth into your daily beauty regimen, the gift shop sells the water filtered by the bottle.
Ghosts Check In and Never Check Out
St Francis Inn Exterior
Photo Courtesy St. Francis Inn
There is a very good reason why St. Augustine is known as the Most Haunted City in America. Ghosts are made to feel very welcome in this town so why would they choose to live anyplace else? You can try to connect with some of the city’s supernatural beings by signing up for one of the many options offered by Ghosts & Gravestones Frightseeing Tours. Or you can just follow my lead and check into a bed & breakfast with a ghost of its own.
In St. Augustine, what’s old is really old. Not only is the St. Francis the oldest inn in the nation’s oldest city, it is just around the corner from the city’s oldest house. The building dates back to the Second Spanish Colonial Period when Gaspar Garcia was granted the property in 1791 by the King of Spain. The St. Francis has had numerous owners since then but today the property is lovingly owned and maintained by Margaret and Joe Finnegan. Every effort has been made to honor the past while ensuring that guests have access to today’s conveniences. The American and Spanish flags flutter languidly from the balcony and beckon you inside. Step through the metal gate and you will be tempted to linger over sweet tea in the picture-perfect garden courtyard filled with bougainvillea and other flora even before checking into your room.
The Garcia Suite
Photo Courtesy St. Francis Inn
Entering the Garcia Suite, I take in the antique furniture, wooden shutters, and the decanter of mysterious brown liquor on the coffee table. The ambiance is historical-homey and I am thankful that the small flat screen television in the corner does not overwhelm the room. Later in the evening, I swaddle myself into the plush king bed and decide to read a bit before dozing off. I’m a big girl. Why not read a little bit about ghosts while I am all by myself. Late at night. In a strange place. I reach for Ghosts and Gravestones in St. Augustine Florida by John F. Stavely.
As I flip through this sliver of a book that promises to deliver big shivers, I am engrossed but not at all scared. Until I reach page 40. All of my city girl bravado exits my body as I read about the ghost of the St. Francis Inn: Lilly. I may need a shot of that strange brown liquor to calm my nerves after all. It seems that Lilly roams the third floor – the very same third floor where I am alone in my room. Legend has it that a forlorn and heartbroken Lilly is in search of her long lost love who committed suicide. As in many love stories, their affair was forbidden. Lilly was the black servant of the white Hardee family who owned the St. Francis Inn after 1855. Her lover was the white nephew of the Hardee’s. When the nephew was told by his family that his dalliance with Lilly must end, he did so in a most tragic fashion by taking his own life.
Poor Lilly. What I would do if I woke up in the middle of the night and saw her ethereal figure weeping at the foot of my bed? Would I offer her my sage, sister-to-sister advice, pour her a drink and say, “Lilly, girl you’ve got move on. There are plenty of other perfectly wonderful ghosts out there. Stop wasting your afterlife.”
Or would I run down the hall in my skivvies screaming?
Taking no chances, I sleep with the light on.
Step into the Gilded Age
The Old Ponce de Leon Hotel, Home of Flagler College
Photo Courtesy Flagler College
I wake up with the sun peeking through the shutters and amazed that I actually snagged some zzz’s after getting so worked up about a possible visitor from beyond. In honor of Lilly, I select a floral dress after taking a steamy shower in the deep-as-a-well bathtub. Bounding down the stairs, I leave all thoughts of ghosts behind me and let my stomach lead the way to breakfast. Ghostbusting apparently revs up the appetite. Fortified with buttery fresh biscuits, crunchy homemade granola, and fluffy scrambled eggs, I decide that my itinerary will include a few sights and plenty of food. Unlike many destinations, St. Augustine lends itself to flexibility. For those who prefer a more structured itinerary, I would highly recommend buying an Old Time Trolley pass and hopping on and off at the various attractions. If you are feeling a little more care-free, just wander around St. Augustine on foot and you are certain to happen upon a treasure. In fact, AAA has recognized St. Augustine as one of the “Ten Most Walkable Cities in America.”
Although I plan on leaving my day fairly unstructured, I walk briskly along St. George Street so that I don’t miss the morning tour at Flagler College. Yes, my school days are far behind but Flagler College is not only an academic institution but also a stunning example of Spanish Renaissance architecture. The residence and dining halls for Flagler College are located in the former Ponce de Leon luxury hotel built by uber-wealthy industrialist Henry Flagler in 1888. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, today students in Ponce de Leon Hall nosh and mingle in the original dining room where socialites and tycoons flirted and flaunted their wealth. Many of the original ornate wooden chairs remain in this majestic space but the room’s piece de resistance are the 79 Tiffany glass windows that surround the students in luxurious history. Valued at many millions of dollars, Flagler College boasts the largest collection of Tiffany windows in the world.
Tiffany Windows at Flagler College
Hmm, "Henry Flagler" looks better than ever!
The history of St. Augustine and Henry Flagler are forever intertwined. Take a dash of Rockefeller’s wealth and add a smidgen of Trump’s complicated love life and you will get a sense of who Henry Flagler was. A classic rags-to-riches story, Flagler was born into a respectable but humble family in 1830 in New York. He made and lost his first fortune in the salt mining industry. A series of fortunate events led him to immense riches when he partnered with John D. Rockefeller in Standard Oil. While vacationing with the first of his three wives in St. Augustine, Flagler fell in love with the town and seized the opportunity to develop it into a vacation spot for the wealthy. Not only did he construct the 540 room Ponce de Leon Hotel but Flagler developed many more stunning properties throughout Florida. He also became a formidable railroad tycoon when he expanded and enhanced train travel throughout the state. If you’re lucky, you may get a chance to chat with a mighty impressive Flagler impersonator while you are in town. No matter what crazy questions you throw at him, Faux Flagler, dressed in heavy wool in the hot Florida, sun stays in character.
French Soul
Chef Jean Stephane Poinard
Striking architecture and melodiic street names like Valencia and Cordova are tangible reminders of the city’s Spanish history but today St. Augustine also has an alluring French presence. For authentic and inventive Gallic cuisine, Bistro de Leon is a must. Conveniently located in the center of town, this new addition to St. Augustine’s dining scene has seduced the palates of locals and visitors. Unpretentious and inviting, Bistro de Leon is a culinary oasis that beckons you to indulge your appetite. Chef/Owner Jean Stephane Poinard and his vivacious wife Valerie are natives of Lyon, France. A 5th generation chef, Poinard’s culinary artistry earned him a coveted place in the elite fraternity, Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises. As a winemaker from the Domaine de la Fond Moiroux, Valerie’s expertise in wine can be seen on the excellent and affordable wine list.
Beautiful & Delicious!
Photo Courtesy Bistro de Leon
Bistro de Leon’s menu showcases Chef Poinard’s innovative interpretation of classic French cuisine. Standouts include Tomato Stuffed with Escargots & Garlic Cream Reduction, Saint Augustine Bouillabaisse, and Pasta del Mer served with a Mussel Reduction Cream, Mussels, Scallops and Shrimps. Bread, of course, is a star player and not an afterthought in French dining. Bistro de Leon’s selection of homemade breads includes organic, walnut, olive and the deliciously decadent bacon bread. Chef Poinard’s commitment to fresh and high quality ingredients are evident in every course and in every succulent bite.
Claude's Chocolate. Almost too pretty to eat but we'll manage!
Photo Courtesy Claude's Chocolate
Chef Poinard may be the king of St. Augustine’s French cuisine but Claude and Nicole Franques are the town’s chocolate royalty. Only a block away from the bayfront, Claude’s Chocolate melds the finest European chocolate making traditions with St. Augustine’s unique ambiance. A native of Toulouse (France), Claude made a name for himself in the United States as the executive chef for 20 years at the renowned Rene Pujol restaurant in New York City. The allure of St. Augustine proved impossible to resist and the Franques left the Big Apple behind to open up their petite but perfect chocolate shop. Just climb three steps on Hypolita Street, open the door, close your eyes, and let the rich aroma of chocolate carry you away. Claude’s Chocolate’s 24 varieties of homemade chocolates, cookies, and ice cream will satisfy the most demanding sweet tooth. Calorie counting is strictly prohibited.
Martinis & Matanzas
Cocktails at the Tini Martini Bar
Photo Courtesy the Casablanca Inn
Ghosts and the gilded age, history and haute cuisine, St. Augustine’s charms are many. Truly, America’s oldest city has countless stories and secrets waiting to be discovered. So whether your choose to spend your day in search of eternal youth or retracing the steps of long gone tycoons; your evening must include the simple sophistication of the Tini Martini Bar at the Casablanca Inn. Sit al fresco on the front verandah and watch the palm trees sway as the Florida sun sets dramatically over Matanzas Bay. Raise your glass and make a toast to St. Augustine, a treasure whose beauty and magic will haunt you long after you’ve departed.
Useful St. Augustine Websites
City of St. Augustine
http://www.ci.st-augustine.fl.us/
St. Francis Inn
www.stfrancisinn.com
Old Time Trolley Tours
www.trolleytours.com/st-augustine
Ghosts and Gravestones Frightseeing Tours
www.ghostsandgravestones.com/st-augustine
Fountain of Youth
www.fountainofyouthflorida.com
Flagler College
www.flagler.edu
Bistro de Leon
www.bistrodeleon.com
Claude’s Chocolate
www.claudeschocolates.com
Tini Martini Bar at the Casablanca Inn
www.casablancainn.com
